원정 개요

BC at Pangpema
C1 at small plateau
C2 at bottom of ice wall
C3 in big ice cave below rock band
C4 on 20% snow slope
C5 at base of huge boulder
C6 at base of huge croissant of rock.

C3 used very seldom, mainly by Sherpas fixing rope above.

1st summit bid left C5 as there was no C6 yet: Vallejo, Berg, Mazur, Jangbu and Gyalu left C5 5:00 am, 18 May got to about 8000m, wind driven back to BC (Berg and Vallejo, others to C5).

Next try on 20th 5:30 am from C5, Mazur and Jangbu to 8100m, wind strong and snowing.

3rd assault on 24th from C6 by Findlay and Grasswick only: got to top at 3:15 pm and at 5:50 pm at 8400m crossing 20-degree snow slope, Findlay heard Grasswick call out behind him, looked over his shoulder, and saw Grasswick slowly sliding head first down snow-slope and over rock cliff and disappeared temporarily and found 200m, west of C6 dead by Findlay. Body left where it fell, badly battered. Then snow fell heavily next day and body covered by snow, Findlay slept in C6.

4th bid on 26 May at 4:30 am from C6 by Vallejo, Mesias and Berg. Reached almost 8300m, bad wind at 7:15 am and slept in C6; hoped for summit attempt next day but too much snow and climb finished.

Bryant left expedition 13 May because of broken tooth and Lloyd left 23 May when weather bad enough he decided to stop and go home to work.