원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 at big snowfield
C2 at snow face
C3 above many seracs on small snow plateau
C4 at Great Shelf
C5 on summit bid (without oxygen).

22 April route making up from C3 among many seracs when Ang Dawa Tamang was hit by fist-size piece of ice hit him at 7300m on cheek and fell 5-7m down. Members and 5 Sherpas carried him to C3, 23rd he's "little Ok" but carried down on mattress when at 10:00 am at 6900m he died. Had not been wearing helmet (none of team wore helmets). Took back to BC 28 April and 1 May body carried to KTM by helicopter.

All stayed in BC 2 weeks because depression. No motivation, not able to decide to go up, but decided to make one try to go to top. 15 May returned to C1, 16th to C3, 17th to C4 and stayed there. 18th am 2:30 up from C4 only 2 Koreans and 2 Indians together. Indians at 8200m turned back because deep snow made them too tired while Um and Park went on up; at 8500m at 8:00 pm made biv (unprepared and no more food and water) on very steep ice, rock-snow mixed with little space to biv. Spent night sitting on small shelf clipped into old rope: cold but gentle wind and only light snowfall. 19 May 4:50 am started up again and 6:20 am on top with sunshine and no wind. On summit 1 hour for ceremony to remember 2 Korean members who died Um's expedition in '99 (had photos and Korean flag which left in plastic at top). Indians on top on 21 May found photos and flag and brought flag down (they kept flag). Um and Park returned C3 1:00 pm and slept there. 20 May to BC at 12:30 pm. Um intends to go to K2 this summer despite his fatigue on return to KTM.