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Swiss to Patrasi

Kande Hiunchuli · 1990 · 가을 (3) · Switzerland

원정 개요

BC at half-hour east of Khola in valley
C1 west of Kande Hiunchuli
C2 southwest of Patrasi peaks
High point at Patrasi peak.

Tried to go to Kande Hiunchuli up its NW Ridge. All men members climbed NW Ridge 5600m. Could see there was much dangerous fall of ice (seracs) on entire steep horseshoe shaped face on W slopes of Patrasi peaks; made biv at 5200m 4th Nov; on 5th Nov to small summit (for recce of route to Kande Hiunchuli or to complete climb). Saw rock ridge of Kande Hiunchuli bad rock and very long across point 19,530 ft returned to camp/biv and back to BC.

Next tried peaks S of Kande Hiunchuli and made camp to 5100m 8th Nov on SW Ridge of point 19,600 ft. On 9th Nov reached point 19,600 ft and along its N Ridge to another peak not on map just N of point 19,600 ft which was 6000m high altimeters; same day retreated to Pt 19,600 ft and down on easier ridge leading SE from point 19,600 ft and thence NW to camp at 5100m and 10th Nov returned to BC; one member half-way to point 19,600 ft and other 2 members to summits on 9th Nov.

11th Nov left BC and trekked north via Chaudhabise Khola; women members went to smaller peaks around BC area.

Could have reached Kande Hiunchuli summit via all the south ridge peaks but long way and this team now did not have enough time; would have needed 1 or 2 camps more.

  • 내부 원정 ID655
  • 원본 EXPIDKAND90301
  • 대장Patrick Marendaz
  • 루트 (Route)Patrasi from S Ridge (NW Ridge)
  • 최고 도달고도5600m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유산악 상태 (5)

참가자 9명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Patrick MarendazSwitzerlandLeader---
Jean-Jacques PilloudSwitzerlandDeputy Leader---
Reymond BeffaSwitzerlandClimber---
Anne-Marie BoschungSwitzerlandMember---
Elisabeth CaverotFranceClimber---
Eric GachetSwitzerlandClimber---
Anne LanfranchiSwitzerlandClimber---
Didier LanfranchiSwitzerlandClimber---
Peter MaederSwitzerlandClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Hawley, Elizabeth · 1990 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199124403/Asia-Nepal-Kande-Hiunchuli-and-Patrasi-Himal-Attempts · 1990 · 웹사이트 (5) ·