원정 개요

Shimizu - 20 Nov 69

2 members on 6500m summit of South Peak on night without sleeping bags; sure could reach summit. 1 steep knife-edge ridge gap intervened and needed one more advance camp and 2 members very tired. Not impossible, but very difficult and takes 3 days. Only 150m remained.

Inoue and Fukui were 2 members who reached highest point 27 Oct.

Had to return because weather getting bad. Most important thing to go back safely; if very tired not safe and Sherpas not able make difficult climb.

Wind and clouds (cannot see snow more than 30m).
Only one route = one they tried.

Highest camp = C4 about 6000m


Shimizu - 18 Sept 69

To Jumla Sept 18 by Twin Pioneer (Royal Nepal Army) left KTM

Dr Ito
Nishihara
Fukui
Liaison officer, Govinda Man Serchand who arranged porters and returned
on next flight.
2 Sherpas.
700 kg.
Other 2 members and 1 Sherpa hope to leave tomorrow + 960 kg

West Nepal Scientific Expedition

Sep 14 1st flight to Jumla
Sep 16 2nd flight to Jumla
Sep 19 leave Jumla
Sep 21 arrive Talphi
Sep 23 Chaudhabise Khola

Oct 6 establish base
Oct 13 summit
Oct 19 leave base
Oct 23 arrive Jumla
Oct 27 leave (Surkhet)

Nov 2 arrive Chilka
Nov 7 arrive Dailakh
Nov 11 arrive Surkhet
Nov 14 leave Surkhet
Nov 14 arrive KTM

Base camp and 3 camps; final attack on point 21,736 from south.
Same approach as 1963.