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Sweda & Takeyama - 2 Dec 72

Jettiborani (about 6940m) due south of Nampa on ridge south from Nampa (intermediate peak between Nampa and Jettiborani is Bobaye; another peak south of Jettiborani is Rokapi). 2 km from Nampa to Bobaye and another 2 km to Jettiborani.

BC (due west) on west side of JB at 3750m established 2 Oct; west side is a face. Expedition's route via glacier northeastwards from BC to ridge north of JB. Had 4 camps above base; C4 at 6050m established 25 Oct.

Highest point was 6150m on 27th Oct by Naoharu Takeyama, Tatsuo Sweda, Yuichi Furuse, Seizo Hotta.

C1 on glacier
C2 on col north of JB
C3 and C4 on ridge

Needed a C5 but had only total 4 tents and snowstorm began 27th and continued 3-1/2 days and during storm 1 Sherpa died of apoplexy (brain bleeding) at C2 at 5100m on 27th (body buried at C2). No accidents, frostbite or other serious illness.

Route they tried is possible to climb, probably only route. Long route with some easy parts and some very steep parts on ridge and in icefall between C1 and C2 where avalanches come frequently.

All members returned to KTM by air from Dhangari except Yamagata, who is still trekking. Leader already in Japan; didn't go to BC.

"We expected smaller and easier peak. This main difficulty."


Shrestha - 13 Nov 72

Nampa (message sent yesterday by LO)

27 Oct up to 6150m; because bad weather 4 days and death at C2 of Ang Temba Sherpa gave up climbing and returned to base; left base camp 7 Nov.


Hotta - 25 Aug 72

29 Aug leave KTM to Simra; Raxaul to Dangari by rail
31 arrive Dhangari
2 Sept leave
Arrive 28 Sept BC

"Nampa South" 5-10 km from main peak, due south; has no name: MFA asks it be called "Nampa South."

Base on west side of "Nampa South." Have no photo, so cannot say route because don't know features. Pioneering like expeditions those in 1950s.

4 HA Sherpas and 1 kitchen boy and mailrunners (1/2 weeks to MFA and embassy). 50 porters to base.

5 Nov end of climbing period; if not able reach summit by then, will come back.


Hotta - 24 Aug 72

4 members arrived today; leave for India and Dhangari 27th or 28th. Sweda and Furuse have gone to India already.


Hotta, Sweda and Furuse - 9 Aug 72

Nagoya University Expedition to NW Nepal 1972 - Nampa South

3 members in KTM now, rest 4 arrive 24 Aug.
Hotta stays KTM whiles other 2 now in KTM go to CCU tomorrow and thence by road with baggage to Dhangari.

Hotta and 4 to be in Guest House or Rawa House.

Route from south; will climb Nampa South Peak, not Main Peak. South Peak hidden by other mountains and not discovered. South Peak is 6940m high (thus higher then main peak). No climber has been on South Peak.

4 Sherpas including Sirdar (not decided who will be Sirdar)
Hotta and 4 Japanese leave KTM about 26 Aug, by rail in India to Dhangari

All in Dhangari about 1st Sept. Leave 3 Sept on 25-day caravan to base camp. Expect establish 4 higher camps with C4 at about 6300m; summit attack end Oct or early Nov.