원정 개요

ABC at Broken Glacier just east of point 6082m on Nepali map
Biv 1 on SW Pillar/Ridge.

3 May Stremfelj, Zalokar and 2 Sherpas porters left BC at 7:00 am east to Lhonak, north to Broken Glacier to ABC at same place in autumn 2005 but now much more snow; members arrived at this ABC at 3:00 pm and Sherpas at 4:00; put up one tent and only Slovenians stayed there (Sherpas to BC). 4 May rested, but 2 hours to bottom of South Face to see face, which Zalokar had not seen before. 5 May 0:30 hours started for climb from ABC and at 2:30 am started actual ascent of South Face; up face to join SW Pillar at 6300m (face had a lot of wide ice gullies, not smooth climbing); now up SW Pillar which had numerous pitches, to biv of only tent and cooker at 6800m at 6:00 pm on icefield. 6 May at 6:00 am up pillar's icefield to west side of pillar, now to West Face (45-70 degree ice mostly same mixed rock and Ice) to summit ridge, the North Ridge of Janak Chuli (on North Ridge only 60 minutes to top). On top at 2:30 pm with light snowfall; after 5 minutes started down same route to bottom of face (5900m) at 5:30 am 7 May and on to ABC at 9:00 am. Sherpas arrived at 2:00 pm to get loads and down to Lhonak at 7:00 pm in heavy snowfall. Stayed at Lhonak that night and on 8th to Ghunsa and joined rest of team there (all 7 members).