원정 개요

ABC at Gyachung Glacier
Biv 1 at North Face
Biv 2 at North Face
Biv 3 at North Face
Biv 4 at North Face in descent.

Pasang Gyalzen Sherpa (BC staff) - Dec 15, 2002

Notes from Hawley interview

Mr. Yasushi Yamanoi and his wife Taeko were hospitalized in Tokyo for the amputation of dozens of fingers due to frostbite. Taeko and Yasushi, two of Japan's premier alpinists, attempted Gyachung Kang (7985m) via the Slovenian Route this October. They arrived at base camp on October 5 and proceeded to an advanced base camp at the foot of the Slovenian Route. On October 7 they continued climbing to 7500m and bivouacked. On Oct 8 it began snowing and at 7600m Taeko gave up climbing and decided to wait for Yasushi. Yasushi returned after reaching the summit solo, and reunited with Taeko, made another bivouac. Snow continued on Oct 9 and they descended to 7200m meters and bivouacked. While descending in the continous snow on Oct 10, Taeko was hit by avalanche, losing her right glove and vision in her left eye. Later the same day Yasushi also lost vision in both eyes. They managed to descend to their advanced base camp where they found none of their support team members. A ten-hour descent on Oct 12 led them to a bivouac on the glacier, Taeko still had no vision. On Oct 13 they arrived at their base camp to learn that their support team had assumed they had disappeared and would not return. They were immediately taken to the hospital in KTM and were flown to the hospital in Tokyo on October 18.

BC(10/05,5700m),ABC(10/05,5830m),Biv1(10/06,7000m),Biv2(10/07,7500m),
Biv3(10/08,7600m),Biv4(10/09,7200m),Smt(10/08)