원정 개요

This mountain previously known as Ganesh II until re-surveyed in early 1990's.

3-4th Oct did recce on face and left dump at foods and fuel at 5400m (Pole's 2nd biv). Started ascent on 7th Oct and climbed almost continuously for 9 days (12th Oct stayed at 6200m because biv at bad site; hanging biv in blowing snow, unable to cook). A lot of climb was extremely steep ice climbing but fixed no ropes - typical of an alpine north wall. Small risk of stone fall which concentrated in chutes ("we ran across those"). 14-16th Oct strong wind driving snow. In descent on 16th tried to go down W Ridge, where thought Swiss had made route to top. Got to col at 6200m. 17th descend back on rightish side of face. On 18th rejoined route of ascent and back at BC on 19th via ABC (lower than BC, on glacier).

About thrice as high as any face in alpine: BC to top of face 2500m.