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Diablerets Ganesh Expedition to Ganesh III

Ganesh III · 1984 · 가을 (3) · Switzerland

원정 개요

This mountain previously known as Ganesh II until re-surveyed in early 1990's.

Turned back on 7th Oct by bad weather. Planned C3 at about 6700m but never reached it. On 7th fixed same rope towards C3 and expected next day to make C3, but 8th very windy and cloudy and little snow. All night of 8/9 Oct snowed and decided to return to BC. That night C1 the two tents flattened and all poles broken by fierce wind; avalanche came down too but camp was protected by crevasse above into which avalanche fell. Route above C1 not very safe because of seracs. 14th 2 members and 2 Sherpas to C2 but deep snow above C1 and much new snow came all that night and wind. Down again on 15th with recoverable equipment (1 tent at C2 broken by heavy snow).

Wirz on 24 Sept fell 2m at 4500m ("stupid accident", injured shoulder); this was all, but lost one day's climbing from it.


Shrestha, Tourism - 23 Oct 84

Abandoned climb. High point 6400m 7 Oct by 3 Swiss and sirdar but had to retreat because bad weather.

9 Oct C1 5300m swept away by wind avalanche and returned to BC to await better weather. 14 Oct 2 Swiss and 2 Sherpas went to C2 6200m, but 14th and 15th heavy snow and high wind. 15 Oct returned to BC and decided to abandon. Left BC 17 Oct and arrived KTM 23 Oct.


Banskota, Tourism - 1 Oct 84

BC at 4300m on 22 Sept. On 25 Sept when team was on way to fix rope to C1, Tony Wirz slipped on glacier, fell down 1 meter and dislocated left shoulder. He was helicoptered to KTM 29 Sept.

C1 pitched at 5400m on 28 Sept Wirz reports.

  • 내부 원정 ID1024
  • 원본 EXPIDGAN384301
  • 대장Roland Garin
  • 루트 (Route)W Ridge from Col between Ganesh IV & Ganesh III
  • 최고 도달고도6400m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유악천후 (4)

참가자 11명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Roland GarinSwitzerlandLeader---
Frederic CochardSwitzerlandClimber---
Michel FaureSwitzerlandClimber---
Nicolas FehrSwitzerlandExp Doctor---
Bernard LiardetSwitzerlandClimber---
Jean-Daniel MacherelSwitzerlandClimber---
Monique MoeschingSwitzerlandClimber---
Philippe ThivoletSwitzerlandClimber---
Jean-Claude VuagniauxSwitzerlandClimber---
Tony WirzSwitzerlandClimber---
Ang Phuri LamaNepalSirdar---

출처·참고문헌

Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth · 1984 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
Ganesh HimalAllen, Rick & Garin, Ronald · 1984 · 학술지·저널 (2) · HJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198527802/Asia-Nepal-Ganesh-II-Attempt · 1984 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/42/6/ganesh-himal/ · 1984 · 웹사이트 (5) ·