원정 개요

Following is from a letter to E. Hawley from Franz Kroell:

In 1987 we went to Nepal with the permit for climbing Saipal from the south: 2nd of October we start in Kathmandu (by plane to Pokhara, with lorry to Phurbe). From Phurbe (5th October) by foot (end of the road) to Chainpur (possible by plane) and to the BC 17th of October). 18th-20th of October we climbed on the SW Face of Saipal up to 6200m (steep, rotten rock).

Then we focused our interest to the opposite side, to the West Ridge from Westlicher Firnkopf (Western Firnkopf) to Ostlicher Firnkopf (Eastern Firnkopf). The height of these two mountains is correct in your map (Austrian Saipal Expedition about 1950; Rudolph Jonas, Vienna).

On 25th of October we climbed Westlicher Firnkopf (Fritz Mross, Germany; Ang Chopal, Nepal; Franz Kroell, Austria). We climbed from BC up an easy icefall, crossed this icefall and climbed up to the main ridge and followed exact the ridge to the very top of Westlicher Firnkopf. We stopped climbing on the summit and did not follow the ridge to Ostlicher Firnkopf and to Saipal.

The climb up to Westlicher Firnkopf is an easy climb (Grade I and II/UIAA ice and snow up to 65 degrees, short fixed sections with few meters of rope crossing the glacier.