원정 개요

Arriving first at their base camp, the western face of Nangpai Gosum I looked in perfect condition, but the team wasn't yet acclimatized. Then occurred a 7-day warm weather period that changed completely the conditions of the face, with proper waterfalls appearing every afternoon at 6500m.

The team had to change its plan facing this unexpected situation.

After difficult days without finding any real plan B, on 17 Oct Dussere and Detrie decided to go for a new line on the NE Face of Dzasampatse (6296m), a summit lying immediately south of Jasemba (first ascent in 2004 by Slovenians). They started at 6 am from their BC, reaching almost (20m below) the top at 15:45, then the col afoot of the normal route SW side (Slovenian route 2004, AD+ grade and not TD+ according to them) at 8 pm.

Meanwhile the same day, Maynadier and Labbre abandoned the plan to repeat the 2006 Japanese route on Nangpai Gosum I southeastern subpeak and decided to repeat their friend's route instead. Starting at 3 am on the 18 Oct, they followed the day before traces to reach same almost top at 9 am and got back to the same aforementioned col at 11:30 am! The route has been christened "A la vertical de la peine."

During its acclimatization, team went to acclimatize on the Kammerlander route of Jasemba.

During approach march, they found the glacial moraines to be extremely chaotic, with huge odd sections of unstable blocks, maybe a consequence of the earthquake?