원정 개요

This was a significant major expedition to the remote area of North Sikkim, generally not open to climbers. The Kolkata Section of the Himalayan Club had organised this expedition, led by Pradeep Chandra Sahoo. The team made ascents of two high mountains located in the Janak Himal of the Sikkim Himalaya in 12-days of climbing from the base camp, both by new routes.

The East Peak of Jongsong (7462m) was climbed by a new route and Dome Kang (7264m) received its first ascent from the Indian (eastern) side.

The ESE ridge, rising above the Jongsong La (6145m) on the Nepal-Sikkim border, was first attempted in 1983 by the Slovenians followed by other teams – but all from Nepal as permission to climb from the north and east is possible only for the Indian teams. The main summit of Jongsong forms the highest triple-border point in the world (India-Nepal-Tibet).

The team passed though Sikkim to the Upper Lhonak valley, and then onto the Jongsong glacier leading southwest to the Jongsong La. The expedition established base camp on 17 September at 5525m, close to a large lake on the north side of the glacier.

Access to the crest of the ESE ridge via the east flanks of Jongsong was barred by steep rocky walls and hanging glaciers. However, two Sherpas finally located a steep gully through these walls. Above was, 200m of broken rock at 40-50°, followed by a difficult 200m rock tower, whose the last part was very steep and loose, leading to an upper icefield. All these sections were fixed with ropes.

On the 26th a team of six climbers moved up from C1 carrying four days’ food and fuel, and two tents. Over the ensuing days, climbers moved up the ridge and established three higher camps, the highest at 6874m. On the 29th five climbers reached the 7257m col between Dome Kang and Jongsong, and then split. Ang Dorji, Phurba, and Sahoo set off for Jongsong to the northwest, while Dawa and Mondal headed east for nearby Dome Kang.

Dawa and Mondal left the col at 10:15 am, and in 35 minutes reached the top of Dome Kang.

The Jongsong group followed the knife-edge SE Ridge leading toward Domo (Jongsong’s SE Summit) and then on to Jongsong, but decided conditions were too dangerous at that time of day. They returned to the col, and Sahoo waited there while two Sherpas Ang Dorji and Phurbu descended to C4, collected a tent and several coils of rope for fixing, and then came back up. All three spent a chilly night, then left at 5:30 am on the 30th. In better snow conditions, it took three hours to ascend the ridge to Domo. The only previous ascent of this rounded top had been in 1930 by Guenter Dyhrenfurth and Lewa Sherpa, who made the round-trip from Jongsong’s main summit in one hour.

The three decided not to continue across the plateau to the main summit (7462m) and made a quick descent of the mountain, reaching C1 just after dark.