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German Chulu West W Ridge Expedition 2017

Chulu West · 2017 · 가을 (3) · Germany

원정 개요

BC 14/10 4800m (next to moraine)
Smt 21/10 by all members and Sherpas and 12:10 pm.

After having attempted the West Ridge (see below), the team decided to do the normal route on the N ridge. On 21 Oct at 3:32 am they started from BC. They moved on the rope together. The gradient was about 30 to 35 degrees. Conditions were good at the beginning, but farther up there was a hard cover. It was windy, but clear. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to BC, where they arrived at 5:10 pm.

West Ridge attempt:

HPt 19/10 5800m by Guenzel, Schuetz, Dawa Gyalje and Pasang Gomba at 1:20 pm.

Team attempted the West Ridge to open a new route. They climbed across the moraine towards the west until their reached a rocky tower to gain the ridge, which was covered in firn snow, where they roped up. They negotiated a steep flank of around 60 degrees, which was followed by another sharp ridge. The ridge ended up in a broader slope, which was covered in a few crevasses and was undulating and not steeper than about 45 degrees. Snow was about shin-deep and some of the crevasses they had to circumvent towards the east.

When they reached the high point they realised that it would too cumbersome to carry on as the ridge was only about 2 fingers wide. They would not have had enough time and the capacities not continue.

Moeller reached to about 5700m, but decided not to continue with the others as he thought it was too risky for him.

On their way down they picked up Moeller and descended to BC, where they arrived at 5:45 pm.

Team left BC on 23 Oct; arrived Kathmandu 25 Oct by vehicle from Manang.

Fixed rope: 60m on the West Ridge.

Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

Sherpas:
Dawa Gyalje (Mingma of Dreamers Destination's brother)
Pasang Gomba

  • 내부 원정 ID9643
  • 원본 EXPIDCHUW17301
  • 대장Manuel Moeller
  • 루트 (Route)W Ridge (to 5800m)
  • 최고 도달고도6419m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 5명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Manuel MoellerGermanyLeader성공--
Andre GuenzelGermanyClimber성공--
Juergen SchuetzGermanyClimber성공--
Dawa Gyalje (Dawa Gyalzen) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공--
Pasang Gombu SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공--

출처·참고문헌

Chulu West, West Ridge, Attempt · 2017 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214484/Chulu-West-West-Ridge-Attempt · 2017 · 웹사이트 (5) ·