원정 개요

BC near point 4100m at end of trail beside Kaphe Khola
C1 at moraine
C3 at NW Ridge
High point at C4 site on NW Ridge.

Very hard on very steep rock wall above C1 with almost 50m 90-degrees but only safe route (stones falling & seracs on both sides); also very difficult was 55-60 degrees & rock below C3. 29th carried loads to C4 site on NW Ridge. Planned to occupy C4 on 30th & go for summit on 31st, but snow very dangerous on ridge; on night of 29th some new snow fell & strong wind made big cornices, would have to wait 4-5 days for sun to consolidate snow. In any case ridge dangerous: sharp & very steep. Necessary in some places to climb on face rather than ridge & this would mean passing under big cornices. On 29th left loads at C4 site, slept in C3 and on 30th morning decided to abandon climb. Night of 29th very cold as well as new snow & wind & toes begining to become numb from cold -22 degrees centigrade inside C3 tent occupied by 3 people. So down from C3 on 30th, abandoning gear at C4 site. Also with no Sherpas doing load-carrying, 6 climbing members very tired by the time they reached C3.

The two Nepali members were Favre's trekking guides over the years. They only went to C1 because they were not experienced climbers.