Independent climber on Cho Oyu
Cho Oyu · 2004 · 가을 (3) · Spain
원정 개요
C1 at 6100m in French Basques's tent
C2 at 7000m in tent of Ochoa's expedition.
12th tried to summit, was seen by Barbieri through binoculars to reach summit plateau, was out of sight for 1-1/2 hours and again visible at 1:00 pm (NST). Had left C2 during night with inadequate headlamp; was very casual, had philosophy of no problem through out climb, but had gotten lost on Xixa, where Barbieri met him, and really was suicidal. By 3:00 pm was at 7800m and there sat there for 1 hour; 4:00 pm started descent few meters at a time, intermittently falling over; 5:30 pm darkness coming and saw him at top of fixed rope above C2 (at 7600m). On 14th snowfall made it impossible to see him. 15th saw no movement, so Tirtha Tamang left ABC to search for him;. 16th found his body below C2 tents and to their side and saw tracks of his having slid down from end of fixed rope that was not secured at bottom end of rope at 7400m. Tamang back to ABC 16th. French Basques met him as their descended from C2; they told him wind too strong and he should go down but he went up anyway, knowing he was now alone in C2 and above and in such bad weather that no rescuer could reach him.
His body found by Tirtha Tamang at about 7550m; was last seen alive at yellow band about 7700m in 13th evening in descent.
Barbieri is "90% sure" he reached summit.
[Ed. note] Ormazabal's body was recovered and returned to Spain for burial in Urretxa, Guipuzcoa, Spain.
- 내부 원정 ID4712
- 원본 EXPIDCHOY04334
- 대장Xabier Ormazabal
- 루트 (Route)NW side
- 최고 도달고도8100m
- 정상 등정 성공아니오
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유사고 (6)
참가자 1명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Xabier Ormazabal | Spain | Leader | - | - | 사망 |