원정 개요

BC at snout of Sharpu Glacier east of mountain
C1 at glacier moraine above 1st icefall
C2 at glacier between 2nd and 3rd icefalls
High point at foot of NE Ridge.

Left Trisuli Bazar 15th, but took long time to BC because of problem of recuiting porters and keeping them moving during [Dasain] holiday period and had to go over 4600m col which many refused to cross. Complicated mountain with numerous ridges and icefalls. Above BC very bad moraine rock rubbish, very difficult to cross. To C2 huge icefall and on glacier below 3rd icefall. Did not make a C3 on NE Ridge because when got to its bottom could see lower part of ridge, which had greatly changed since New Zealanders were there in 1953: 1000-1500 ft steep rock threatened by seracs which were too dangerous or 60 degrees snow and hanging glacier. Did not have time and equipment to tackle this and not enough time left. Very cold at C2 and weather unsettled. Had expected snow slope ridge, but this it was no longer. Mountain cannot be seen from its base and all approaches very difficult. Lots of seracs coming down on south, east and north sides.