원정 개요

22 Dec Bielun, Piotrowski and Terlikowski left C2 on summit push. Biv at 6300m, next day biv at 6500m (very long distance from 1st biv and very strong wind). 24 Dec left biv at 10:00 am in strong wind but not roped together since no route.

Terlikowski at 5:00 pm decided return to biv tent and did so alone. Bielun was seen to reach top 1-1/2 hours before Piotrowski. Very strong wind and darkness: when Piotrowski reached top about 7:30 pm on hands and knees did not meet Bielun and did not know what happened to him. Piotrowski fell 2m in descent and stopped descent, prepared snow for biv at 6:00 am. Only Terlikowski in tent and they waited 2-1/2 days. 27th in snowstorm Piotrowski and Terlikowski went down.

Route was ridge to last biv which was at start of snow done. Not so very difficult: 300m fixed rope from C1 to little above C2 on ice.

Bielun blown away, maybe in dark lost his way, maybe fell - do not know. 25 Dec fog and snowfall in which could see only 20m and impossible to look for him.

[On Dec 28 Gocyka, Jedlinski and Kowalewski climbed a nearby subpeak of 6070m above C2 to look for Bielun.]


Banskota, Tourism - 8 Jan 84

2 members of 1st summit team:
Tadeusz Piotrowski, 1940, economist, Szczecin
Andrzej Bielun, 1946, Gdynia, tester of food articles

Summit 24 Dec; Bielun at 6:00 pm on top and Piotrowski at 7:30 pm via NW Face. The 2 started from C3 (altitude?). While descending from Bielun blown away by strong wind. With help of Zbigniew Terlikowski, the leader searched for Bielun for 2-1/2 days but not found.

3rd man Terlikowski tried for top but strong winds stopped him 2 hours short of top.

1st group started from BC 13 Dec and 2nd group on 14 Dec to top
C1 5200m
C2 5800m reached by others
No mention of expedition finished
BC 3300m