원정 개요

Ishikawa - 13 May 78

Very difficult - reached 5900m on North Ridge - highest camp was C2 at 5630m.

Stopped climbing because so much snow and very difficult with much overhanging rock. This route possible but takes long time and this season so much snow, so expedition decided to abandon climbing on 1 May.

Ishikawa's accident 2 May while coming down from C1. Had heavy load clearing mountain. Fell 200 meters and hit his back on ice pinacle. One vertibrae broken and takes 2-3 months to mend lying on his back, but will climb again.

All others leave on 16 May; he leaves with 2 others on 17 May and will have to be lying down on planes.


Ranjan Bhattacharya, Express House - 9 May 78

Annapurna South expedition's leader, doctor and injured member Ishikawa came to KTM today by helicopter.

Ishikawa hurt his back in fall of 2-3 meters and was hit by same ice blocks; is not in hospital here.

Rest of expedition left BC 7 May


SR Sharma - 8 May 78

Abandoned 3 May after reaching 5910m on 2 May.
1 member back injury on 2 May (not named)
Others well. Weather not good.


Yamada - 16 Feb 78

To Pokhara tomorrow by bus.
North Ridge route, same expedition as 1973 but different route to summit. 1st time via this North Ridge.

This ridge very difficult, but no avalanches as from 1972 and 1973 route.

Will not climb North Pinnacle but will climb Central Pinnacle.

1964 from northeast to Central Park
1971 - ?
1973 from north onto East Ridge from Central Peak
1978 from East Wall to North Ridge N of North Peak
Leave 18 Feb

Caravan 6-7 days 150 porters up Modi Khola to BC at 4050m.
ABC
C1
C4 - 6800m
Summit before 20 April

3 HA Sherpas including Pasang Sonam
9 members including Dr.
No climbing oxygen

Most difficult between C3 and C4 from rock to ice to rock, all very steep.