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On 10 Oct started descent, came to bergschrund at about 6300m and went into crevasse here in very bad weather (white-out) and avalanches coming down mountain (1 buried both men and turning point in Uttley's health - middle night of 11th). 13th wind but clear and Pilling able get out but Uttley not. Left him with 5 days food and some fuel and met others at ABC on 14th. Very slow downwards because snow so deep and upwards movement even (on this frozen cover) and Pilling shattered. Again weather turned bad with avalanches and no actual effort made to go up. Uttley's condition when Pilling left was so bad he probably would just sink away.

Pillar Ok but need period of 10 days.

Were going halfway East Ridge as acclimatization and to put in snowholes with supplies in case needed to descend this way. Then would make ascent via SE Ridge Pillar. After Uttley accident never made try for Pillar.


Shrestha, Tourism - 26 Nov 83

Leader's reports death of Robert G. Uttley, born 1961, geology student, Sheffield, on approx 14 Oct due to pneumonia and related illness at 6300m on East Ridge of Annapurna III. He was accompanied by Trevor Pilling, born 1956, student, Worcester.

The 2 men were caught in 5-day storm at this alitude (6300m). "Uttley's condition gradually deteriorating to state where he was unable to function and even attempt retreat without further assistance of more members. Eventually on 13 Oct Trevor Pilling had to retreat in order to save his own life. Attempts to conduct a rescue were useless as the weather conditions were very bad (new snow) and this may have endangered further life."

All 4 members had reached altitude 6150m, but 2 numbers, Uttley and Pilling had reached 6300m on 8 Oct. In evening of 8 Oct weather broke and they tried to descend but due to heavy snowfall and wind they could not come down, they were in a crevasse at that altitude. It was decided to abandon expedition on 18 Oct and left BC on 20 Oct and arrive KTM 26 Oct (today).

BC 3500m 5 Sept
ABC 4500m 11 Sept
C2 snowhole on East Ridge
6100m 28 Sept
Next snowhole on East Ridge 6150m 3 Oct

Kekus and Jonathan Tinker (born 1959, laborer, leader) were at ABC during storm and tried to go up to rescue "but because of continuous bad weather they could not go up."

All 3 survivors are well.