원정 개요

Leader Santon - 5 Nov 77

Radin broken leg and slight finger frostbite but not unconscious - otherwise MFA correct except 2nd team went summit on 25th and spent night 25/26 in C5. Radian's accident near C4 12:00 hrs on 26th when Brianzi on his rope slipped and fell and hope he belaying by injured his leg same place where Radin injured. Henry fell 8 pm 23rd near C4 and fell 300m into crevasse. Body in crevasse: not possible to recover, all others well.

27 members: for unknown climbers also to be able to come to Himalayas. If no accidents total 19 to top including 3 women who were in C4 and 2 in C3.

Route was West Ridge not SW Pillar - not new route. When looked at mountain, Southwest Pillar would have taken 60-70 days.

C1 to top very good weather. BC and C1 always in fog.

Whole team leaves Mon by RNAC. All members in KTM - Radin by helicopter yesterday (is in hotel not hospital).

Women poised for top:
Brusegan & Rossi in C5
De Eccher & Perale in C3


Jha, MFA -28 Oct 77

C3 - 11 Oct 5000m 15:00 by Brainzi, Radin, Gadenz
C2 - by 7 members including these 9 Oct (not altitude).
C1 - 4620m 1-2 days earlier.
C4 - in couple of weeks.
All well


Bigio & Cepparo - 23 Sept 77

Expect leave 27 Tuesday; waiting for more baggage to arrive probably today.
Bus to Pokhara, 1 night there. 6 days to BC via Modi Khola. Don't know exactly where BC but 3900-4000m on grass.

Route via Southwest Pillar.
Probably 5 camps above BC, C5 7000m.
10 Sherpas.
No oxygen for climbing.

27 Italians including women really climbing (14 more, will trek to BC for 2 days visit, arrive BC about 10 Oct).

1st members on summit 25 days after BC.
All climbers expect 2 or 3 have technical possibility to reach summit.

Considering weather, acclimatization, etc. Maybe actually 12 on top; want at least 1 woman to get to top.

1 group of 5 scientists - chemistry of water in river and glaciers - bottle systemfication entymologist measurement.

Most difficult parts of climb: getting on to pillar and rock barrier on pillar about 5700-6000m.


Two members of the 27 members club Alpino Italino Expedition to 7548 meter Annapurna III namely Henry Luigino and Mr. Cheney Giuseppino along with Mr. Pasang Temba Sherpa of Paplu village had reached the summit on 23rd October at 13:00 hours. They were however struck with a terrible accident on their way back to C4 with another member Mr. Albiero Giacomo and Mr. Ang Dorje Sherpa who were in Camp 5. They started their decent at about 16:00 hours under the impression that the decent will be easier than the ascent but due to the snow and weather condition, they met with an accident.

At about 20:00 hrs when they left about 100m Mr. Luigino who was decending, suddenly fell down into a crevasse. His body found 300m below the next day. He sustained injury on his head and face. He was found lying lifeless.

Meanwhile two other members of the expedition namely Mr. Brianzi Giorgio and Mr. Radin Piero who were in Camp 5 on 23rd Oct not knowing the accident, went to the summit on 24th Oct 1977. They spent the night on 25th in Camp 5 when they were returning on 25th Mr. Radin Piero had an accident. He sustained a leg injury and was conscious for many hours. At about 23 hours he again regained his consciousness and other helping him were able to bring him to C4 at about 13:00 hours only.

Most of the other members waiting for another bid to the summit had decided to return because of this tragic incident.

The Italian expedition had left the base camp yesterday on 30th October on their way back to KTM.

The Italian expedition had earlier pitched its Camp 5 on 22nd Oct at 12:00 hours at an altitude of 6800m and fourth camp at an altitude 6000m on 20th October.

Mr. Henry Luigino, Mr. Cheney Giuseppino, Mr Albiero Giacoma and Mr. Ang Dorje Sherpa and Mr. Pasang Temba made these Camps 4 and 5.

According to a report received here from the base camp yesterday rest of the members though tired are otherwise in good condition.