원정 개요

At first the team acclimatized on Mera Peak; that it didn't summit as they mistakenly took the right side of the normal route.

On the summit day of Amphu, the team started on the 9th October from its bivouac at 8:30 am, reached the summit at 3 pm, then returned to its same bivouac at 6 pm. The day after the team was back at the BC at 12:30 am.

After this, the team thought it had enough time to come sooner to Kathmandu and then leave faster for Korea. However, it was trapped by snow and had a very hard time between Sherpani Col and Makalu BC. The team eventually reached Num. From there it was driven to Biratnagar by bus, then after 2 days of waiting to Kathmandu by plane.

Considering the climb on Amphu I, it was mainly in ice and snow. The general slopes of the corridor were 70-degrees steep in average (up to 80 in passages). On the West Ridge, as it was quite sharp and in soft snow conditions, the team had to belay all time up to the summit and down from it.

Eventually the team left on the mountain 1 rock piton, 6 ice screws and snow bars, mostly used for the abseils in the corridor and belays on the West Ridge. It used otherwise 5 to 7 meters of fixed rope to equip a delicate passage in the broken glacier used to approach the proper climb.

The route was called windy couloir as most of the SW Face's corridor used by the Koreans was so. The whole route is 1800m high, with 500m of glacier approach (1300m for the climb itself).

International grade estimated like: WI4 AI5 ED2 XI UIAA 6