원정 개요

The team approached their BC from Lukla via Dingboche and Chhukung villages to the Chhukung Glacier, which was now moraine, and made their BC on the moraine at 5100m on 31 October. Then they went on an acclimatization trek to the Amphu Laptsa at 5800m, wehre they arrived on 3 November. They returned to BC on the 4th. On the 5th they went to the site on their first bivouac and returned to BC the same day.

They began their attack on the mountain on 10 November, when they revisited their first bivouac site at 5400m on a platform they dug out of the ice. The next day, the 11th, they moved up to 6000m and bivouacked here at the bottom of the North Face.

During the night there was a "huge" avalanche, and in the morning of the 12th they saw a large serac overhanging their bivouac site which appeared to be ready to fall. They immediately decided to leave the mountain and descended to 5400m, where they had spent the night of the 10th. They were in BC on the 13th, and that day the serac did all; no one was hit by it. They left BC on the 15th.

Two men, Nagoshi and Shinagawa got frostbite -- Nagoshi on four fingers and Shinagawa, who had been frostbitten on a previous climb, on his toes. The frostbitten areas were painful, but no blisters had developed.

Nagoshi said he would like to return to Amphu's North Face. He believed this had been the first attempt ever to scale the mountain.