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Nottaris, Petrini and Righeschi prepared route from North BC up to C2 at 6850m. 250m rope was fixed up along the way up to 6850m. Nottaris climbed alone to summit leaving C2 at 3 am of 28 Sept. Reached summit on 29 Sept at 7 pm. Bivouacked on descent at 7500m at midnight.

24th all down to BC after reaching 6850m that day. 27th Righeschi and Nottaris moved up from BC to C2 and Righeschi to 6850m to dump Nottaris' equipment there and returned that night to C2 with Nottaris. 28th Sept Nottaris started up 3:00 am, picked up equipment at 6850m at end of fixed rope and bived at 7800m. 29th Sept very strong wind and stayed in biv till 11:00 am when wind abated and Nottaris went up to top 7:00 pm and stayed few minutes, hand frostbitten. Descended to 7500m on normal route to N Col on 30th and then more direct route reached BC 9:30 pm 30th Sept.

Very difficult 6400-6900m, 60-degrees ice and rock. Much wind every day, but Nottaris well acclimatized in Zanskar in July-Aug 1984. If not this 40 days above 4500m to 6300m, could not have made this climb. So much wind, all bare rock (no snow) above 7400m.

LO died 13 Sept in Hillary BC from pulmonary edema. Body taken by Italians liaison officer and cremated several days later elsewhere.

Petrini left BC 26 Sept a little ill. Nottaris slight frostbite left fingers but healing.


Shrestha, Tourism - 5 Oct 84

Succeeded to put Nottaris on summit. He left BC on 27 Sept to climb mountain and established C1 6400m and C2 7800m. 29 Sept at 19:00 hours Nottaris reached top where stayed 10 minutes and took photos in clear and windy weather; returned to 7500m that night. 30 Sept at 10:00 pm reached BC.

Fingers of his left hand have frostbite.

One member Sergio Petrini left BC 25 Sept because of respiratory problem.
West Face permitted route, apparent solo ascent.