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Catalan Cho Oyu Expedition

Cho Oyu · 1984 · 가을 (3) · Spain

원정 개요

BC at Dzasampa on Nangpa Glacier last spot before moraine.

SW Ridge to W Face. 1st summit attempt failed on Sep 19. Successful attempts on Sep 20-21.

1st attempt on 19th from 4 by 3 members and Nima Dorje, but too much snow falling and return to C4 from high point 7850m. On 20th party arrived top 10:00 am in strong wind. Fog and snow falling during descent. 2 hours later 2nd group of 2 members with small tent decided to try to reach top but wind forced biv at 7900m at 3:00 pm. Next day got to top at 9:00 am.

Between C2 and C3 was technically most difficult part, through seracs and crevasses requiring 200m on fixed rope for descent when tired, but not really very difficult. Saw 2 slab avalanches very near. Route used about same as those of Messner and Czech ladies. Really much same as Tichy except between C1 and C2.

  • 내부 원정 ID998
  • 원본 EXPIDCHOY84301
  • 대장Lluis Belvis Del Rio
  • 루트 (Route)W Ridge-W Face (Messner 1983 rte)
  • 최고 도달고도8188m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 9명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Lluis Belvis del RioSpainLeader---
Emilio Civis AbadSpainClimber---
Jean Robert ClemensonFranceClimber성공--
Antoni Llasera PareraSpainClimber성공--
Jordi Pons SanginesSpainClimber성공--
Carles Valles OcanaSpainClimber성공--
Ang Karma SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공--
Nima Dorje TamangNepalH-A Worker---
Shambu TamangNepalH-A Worker성공--

출처·참고문헌

Pons, Jordi · 1984 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
La Realidad de un SuenoValles, Carles · 1984 · 단행본 (1) ·
· 1984 · 잡지 (3) · MM
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198527501/Asia-Nepal-Cho-Oyu · 1984 · 웹사이트 (5) ·