French-Swiss Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
Ama Dablam · 2018 · 가을 (3) · France
원정 개요
BC 17/10 4600m
C1 19/10 5600m deposit, 21/10 sleeping
C2 25/10 6000m
Smt 26/10 by Jean-Luc Bremond at 9 am.
All members except Thomas Richard made a deposit at C1 on October 19.
Bremond, Bonzon and Morschel slept at C1 on October 21. On the day after went up to C2 reached at 11 am, then all went down to BC. Bonzon was helped by 2 Sherpas from the team during this trip (for these Sherpas it was the high point of the expedition also).
On summit day, Bremond started from C2 at midnight, reaching the top at at 9 am in clear sky conditions despite cold and windy. Stayed 2:30 on top waiting for Morschel - who never reached the top, doing pictures and videos. Started back down at 11:30 am, reaching C2 at 4:30 pm, where Morschel was resting (had 3 frostbitten bones in the right hand). Slept there and reached BC on the day after, 27 October. Left BC on the day after.
Bremond and Morschel climbed without Sherpas. Only Bonzon was meant to climb with Jamling Sherpa on summit day, but she had decided to abandon on 22 October.
Fixed rope: fixed by other teams.
Team left BC on 28 October.
Members:
Jean-Luc Bremond. Summit on October 26.
Patricia Jose Bonzon. Hight point at C2 on October 22nd; on descent decided to abandon, due to technical difficulties of the route, already between C1 and C2. Was meant to climb with Jamling Sherpa (holds an UIAGM medal of mountain guide).
Paul-Andree Jaccard, High point at C1 on October 19. Abandonned because of tiredness (good mountaineer who had climbed Cervin and Eiger north faces).
Jean-Marc Morschel. High point at 6200m on October 26, above grey tower, between C2 and C3. Was slower than Jean-Luc Bremond. After passing the grey tower, Morschel told Bremond to continue without waiting for him since him wanted to shoot some video of other climbers during the night. As he did so he lost a glove blown in the wind, which led him to get 3 bones of the right hand to be frostbitten (minor 1st degree). Had had already same hand frostbitten on Everest in the past.
Thomas Richard. High point at 4600m at BC. Went too fast during the approach march above Namche to the BC, leading him to get AMS up there. Days after arrival to BC he got sick. Didn't go up with others to C1 on October 19. Went down to Tengboche on October 20 at 8:30 am, then to Namche Bazar where he met with a doctor, then Lukla and KTM.
Hired:
Jamling Sherpa
Sherpa 2, high point on October 22nd at C2
Sherpa 3, high point on October 22nd at C2
- 내부 원정 ID9959
- 원본 EXPIDAMAD18312
- 대장Jean-Luc Bremond
- 루트 (Route)SW Ridge
- 최고 도달고도6814m
- 정상 등정 성공예
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)
참가자 5명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jean-Luc Marcel Bremond | France | Leader | 성공 | - | - |
| Patricia Jose Bonzon | Switzerland | Climber | - | - | - |
| Paul-Andre Jaccard | Switzerland | Climber | - | - | - |
| Jean-Marc Morschel | France | Climber | - | - | - |
| Thomas Philippe Richard | France | Climber | - | - | - |