원정 개요

BC 23/10 4600m (BC lodge)
C1 28/10 5800m
C2 01-02/11 6000m
C3 03/11 6300m (Geary, Rolleston)
Smt 02/11 by Austin, Campanaro, Barton, Svensson, Dawa Bhote, Pasang Bhote,
Chheten [Dorje] Sherpa, Guru Bhote
Smt 04/11 by Geary, Prakash Sherpa.

First summit team started from C2 at 2:15 am, summited around noon, then down to C2 at 5:30 pm. Clear day, no wind, good summit day.

Second summit team started from C3 at 6:30 am, summitted at 10 am, down to C1 at 3 pm. Little bit windier than previous days, but not too bad.

Henzell reached 6000m. He had a chest infection and chose not to go higher.

Alvarez reached C1 on 28/10. She had AMS and went down with Austin. She was given oxygen on descent. She is fine now and climbed Island Peak afterwards.

Rolleston-Kerr and Ang Chhewang on summit push turned around at 7:30am on 6400m due to cold.

Svensson, Barton and Campanaro flew out by heli from BC to KTM on 04/11. Remainder of team left BC on 05/11.

Oxygen use: taken and used by Campanaro overnight in C2 and on descent from C2 to C1. Alvarez at C1 and on descent to Yak Camp.

Other peaks: Alvarez climbed Island Peak.

Accidents, etc : Alvarez AMS; Henzell chest infection