원정 개요

Japanese estimated peak altitude to be 6553m; current HMG-Finnish map shows altitude of 6433m.


Hirotani - 12 Sept 63

1st day 22nd Oct - Tatsumi, Miyamoto, Ishinabe attack from C3, 6 am reached peak 1:30 pm very fixed rope 200m.
2nd day 23rd Oct - Hirai, Mori, Dr Kasamatsu and 2 Sherpas Dorje and Ang Tharkey from Namche.
3rd day 25th Oct - Hirano, Hirotani, Hioki, Takahashi and Sirdar Ang Tshering and Dogba [Lhakpa??] Tensing.

About 24,000 ft Climbed via south. Tried east first, but very difficult, so went via newly discovered Sharphu Glacier where made C1, C2 and C3 - highest C3 at 6500m.

No accidents. Needed many fixed ropes on south side (1000m). At base separated in 2 parties. To Kathmandu: Hirotani, Hioki, Takahashi, Hirai, Mori, Kasamatsu; Hirotani leaves Thursday via Biratnagar and Cal (on Tokyo); others to Kathmandu via Namche early Feb.

Most difficult part from C2->C3 - very steep, ice and rock mixed.
C2 at 5900m
C1 at 5000m
BC 4100m
1st party left base Oct 20 for final assault.

From Kangbachen
Base Camp
16 Oct
Sharphu Himal

Started 27 Sept with 75 porters from Dharan. After 16 days (12 Oct) arrive base camp at 4150 meters. Wish to climb via East Face but could find no route there, so from SE Ridge and up col to South Face of Sharphu Glacier. 14th Oct established C1 just below Col at about 5000m. Return end Nov.

Letter from T. Kasamatsu to Tamura post marked 19 Sept 1965 from Purnea gave return address as
C/O British Camp
Dharan, Eastern Nepal


Ishihara - 10 Sept 63

Expedition's liaison officer Janardan Raj Bhandary (who says he was with Peter Taylor and that the Ang Tharkey with Sharphu Expedition is not same as with Herzog).

Ishihara leaves Kathmandu for Calcutta today. Expedition leaves Calcutta for Biratnagar 16 Sept. Liaison officer and Sherpas fly Kathmandu-Biratnagar 15 Sept. Hirano and 3 others will come to KTM in Feb.


Hirano - 3 Sept 63

Tokyo Metropolitan University and Osaka Prefecture University from Tokyo-Osaka. Osaka Prefecture University climbed Mt. Nupchu last year and discovered Sharphu whose exact height not known. So want try climb it instead; both Talung and Sharphu virgin peaks; both near Kangchenjunga (Talung on Sikkim-Nepal border; Sharphu little west of border).

Leader and 2 members here in Kathmandu. Arrived yesterday. Rest are still in Japan. All arrive Calcutta about 9th Sept. Mid-Sept all to Biratnagar and thence to mountain.

Each member doing our field of scientific work also. Also members except 68-year-old leader will climb. Reach base camp beginning Oct; mid or end Oct reach peak.

Ishihara - 6 Sept

Expedition Sherpas:
Dorje Sherpa
Ang Tharkey