원정 개요

The conditions were really good, but just for three days (16, 17 and 18 during the morning). We started going up with a little bit of fresh snow from the last day. We got to ABC walking around 8k til 4900m and stopped in a "yak lagoon"; the next morning climbed for around 6 hours and 7 kms; we followed a cornice till the bottom of the glacier, and we found a big frozen lagoon. We superate this part turning left through a 50g small rock tongue. After that we faced the glaciar from this more gentil side til 5600m with snow up to upper ankles. We decided to stop 500 meters before the final pinnacle because of the big crevasse. With just one morning of good weather in front of us, we decided to stop climbing. Slept there and came back down next morning.