원정 개요

ABC 18/04 5700m by helicopter from Island Peak
C1 23/04 6100m
C2 24/04 6600m
C3 30/04 7400m
C4 01/05 7700m
C5 02/05 8000m
Smt 03/05 by Gao, Nima Gyalzen, Ang Dawa, Jit Bahadur at 9 am
Smt 13/05 by Miao, Ang Dawa and Jit Bahadur (again) at 6 am.

03/05 Summit team left C5 at 1 am. Weather good, slightly windy. Little snow. Good conditions. Nima and Jit Bahadur had fixed the rope from C4 to 8400m previously. They spent about 20 min on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 1 pm. They descended to BC on 04/05.

13/05 summit team left C5 at 1 am. Good conditions. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit. Miao and Jit Bahadur descended to ABC, where they arrived at 9 pm. Ang Dawa descended to C2 as he was having a stomach ache. On 14/05, Jit Bahadur and Dendi from SST went to C2 to help Ang Dawa down as he was still unwell. They had to drag him down and arrived at ABC at 10 pm. They gave him drink and food and a Spanish doctor gave him some medicine. He lay in his tent and seemed fine and went to sleep. He died at around 2 am on 15/05. Apparently from a burst ulcer.

Team left BC on 15/05.

Fixed rope: 1200m from C4

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C5 to summit to C5 by Nima Gyalzen, Jit Bahadur and Ang Dawa
Gao did NOT use oxygen

Sherpas:
Nima Gyalzen, Beding, 09/08/1985
Jit Bahadur, Khare-5, Dolakha, 30/07/1978
Ang Dawa Sherpa, Kerung, Solukhumbu, 2043/07/28