원정 개요

From Himalayan Times - 18 May 2018

KATHMANDU: A Russian climber died of altitude sickness on Mt Lhotse yesterday, according a government official.

Gyanendra Shrestha, liaison officer at the Ministry of Culture Tourism and Civil Aviation, confirmed that Rustem Amirov breathed his last at Camp 2 of the world’s fourth highest peak.

A Facebook post by his family read, “Clever and strong as he was, he turned around just 100 metres from the summit due to bad weather. The bad weather slowed his descent. At some point above Camp 3, he suffered from acute mountain sickness. High altitude porters were sent to rescue him, and help him down to Camp 2.

Unfortunately it was too late. He was unconscious when he passed away and didn’t suffer any pain, if that is of any consolation.”


From Oxana Morneva - 28 May 2018

Rustem Amirov - dead Russian on Lhotse

Arrived at C4 on 15/05 and was looking for Chatur and Oxana Morneva. He said he did not have tent, sleeping bag or mattress. He asked to sleep in their tent. Pasang Dorje said took him into his tent. Pasang Dorje said that he could stay with them until SST Sherpas arrived and made a tent. There were five people in the tent. Rustem left the tent and SST Sherpas set up a tent where he moved into at around 7 pm. Rustem died on 16/05 at C3.

Chatur saw him on 16/05 in the morning and Ruskin's face was already blue. Chatur told him to go down as he would die otherwise (as he did).


From Victor Rimac - 26 May 2018

On 16/05, Rimac saw the Rustem Amirov (Russian who died on Lhotse) about 80m above his camp. He was sitting there attached to the fixed rope. Ang Dawa and another Sherpa were with Rimac in the tent (they were with Alpine Sherpa Guide Treks and had two clients for Everest). At about 8:30 am he went up to the Russian together with the two Sherpas and brought him down. He was very sick. He already had bad frostbite on his fingers and was unable to talk. They pulled him down to a tent at C3. Rimac injected dexamethasone and stayed with him for two hours. He asked people who were going past the tent whether they had any oxygen for him to help the Russian climber, but nobody responded. The Russian died at around 10:45 am.