원정 개요

BC above Yalung Glacier on rocky greasy knoll
C1 at top if first icefall (called "the lump")
C2 on Great Shelf
C3 on 200 ft below cwm of cycle, a big rock feature between Yalung Kang & Kangch.

Fixed 200m rope above BC up first icefall in deep snow and then whole route fell off so the used Polish route to left of Beghin route here. Made dump at top of 2nd icefall on 24th Sept, but to acclimatize carried load to C1 for a while until ready to occupy C2 on 28th Sept. Put C3 tent on 5th Oct at 7500m, moved it next day to site he intended for it and then weather getting bad (high clouds and strong winds) and toes and fingertips freezing and back to BC on 12 Oct. Final push to top began night of 15 Oct, reached C3 on 17th in bad snow conditions. Started up on 18th Oct at 5:00 am with very cold toes in cold windy weather. Had to climb difficult rock band using Japanese rope there and at top of this at 4:30 pm where left rucksack as signal for finding route in descent.

Coming down rock tripped, fell head first but somehow hooked arm in Japanese rope and tore cartilage in knee but unware of it. Reached C3 at 9:30 pm hallucinating, no food or drink since explosion of cooker on morning. Kept falling down on 19th descent of 6 hours to C2 "in bad shape." Coudray [who was on Yalung Kang] was in C2 and gave food and water but went on ahead of Marshall to C1 - knee and toes giving trouble.

Marshall used French fixed ropes to top of 1st icefall but not above. Cindy to C1 one time when Marshall was there.

"I don't think I'd do something like that again." Interested in soloing to 26,000 ft but not worth the really big effort to go higher. "It was a long climb."