원정 개요

BC 26/04 5350m
C1 30/04 5900m
C2 01/05 6400m
C3 07/05 7000m
C4 14/05 7700m
Smt 15/05 by Akkaev, Chatur Tamang, Pasang Lama Bhote, Kippa Sherpa at 6:30 am
16/05 by Morneva, Pasang Dorje, Nima Nuru at 6 am.

15/05 summit team started at 2 am. They took 4-1/2 hours. They spend about an hour on the summit. Akkaev and Kippa descended to C2.

Chatur, Pasang Lama stayed at Lhotse C4 on 15/05 and waited for Morneva to come up to Lhotse C4.

Morneva, Pasang Dorje and Nima Nuru left Lhotse C4 at 8 am. Morneva was already having trouble breathing on the way up. They spent about 5 minutes on the summit.

Morneva's team descended to C4, where they picked up Chatur and Pasang Lama and they descended to C2, where they arrived at midnight. Morneva did not feel well. She had a sore throat and a fever. On 17/05 they rang a helicopter, but it could not land due to bad weather. She stayed at C2 for another night and broke a rib from coughing. On 18/05 Morneva and Akkaev were picked up by helicopter in the morning. She was taken to Swacon International Hospital, where she stayed until 21/05. She was diagnosed with frostbite in her throat.

The whole team was affected by the flu at the beginning of the expedition.

About 60 per cent of the Lhotse couloir was fixed by Mingma Gyalje. The team climbed up on a rope.

Zakharov reached C1 on 30/04. He was intending to climb without a Sherpa, but realized that he was not able to and left the expedition.

Kernitskiy broke his knee at the airport, thus did not reach base camp.

Rustem Amirov - dead Russian on Lhotse

Arrived at C4 on 15/05 and was looking for Chatur and Oxana Morneva. He said he did not have tent, sleeping bag or mattress. He asked to sleep in their tent. Pasang Dorje said took him into his tent. Pasang Dorje said that he could stay with them until SST Sherpas arrived and made a tent. There were five people in the tent. Rustem left the tent and SST Sherpas set up a tent where he moved into at around 7 pm. Rustem died on 16/05 at C3.

Chatur saw him on 16/05 in the morning and Ruskin's face was already blue. Chatur told him to go down as he would die otherwise (as he did).

Team left BC on 24/05.

Oxygen: From C2 to top (Lhotse & Everest) to C2 by members and Sherpas

Sherpas:
Chatur Tamang (in database)
Pasang Lama Bhote (on K2 in 2008 disaster)
Kipa, Bakachol-9, Khotang, 08/10/1992
Pasang Dorje, Samde, Khumbu 27/04/1993
Nima Nuru


Morneva - 7 April 2019

Volshchuk reached C2 and then had problems with his lungs and left the expedition. He was admitted to hospital in Ukraine and was kept there for six months. He recovered and is now going back to Lhotse again [in 2019].