원정 개요

BC same as Poles (higher than usual site)
C3 at foot of couloir.

Most difficult part is 50-degrees steep couloir, but no great technical difficulties. Some danger with seracs between BC and C2. Fixed about 200m between C1 and C2.

Two members left a little early after their summit success.


Bernard Muller - 12 Nov 84

Muller believes Baud probably reached summit on 10 Oct before Poles. Previous day's summiter had made excellent track, so he could move quickly, and he was back down before Poles (though he skied part of the way down).


Ms Gautier De la Ferriere - 4 Nov 84

Miss Gautier before above 6400m (Glacier Dome in autumn 1983). "Acclimatizing to 8520m? Yes, it was difficult but no more difficulty than the others."

She was late to top because bad weather after 11th to 17th and she had take antibiotics for tonsilitis early in expedition.

Muller and she established C3 on 5th but tired and felt not acclimatized enough and then bad weather. Other members called porters for 22nd. Gautier and Muller reached Peak 21st at 6:30-7:00 pm. Psychological pressure on them since same members had already left.

Now goes to Annapurna I in winter and hopes to try (1988?) for Everest via South Col. Now I like to go to Everest, the top of the world (but "I don't know now" about all 8000ers).