원정 개요

The Asian Trekking International Kangchenjunga expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Asian Trekking provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below.

David Liano was the nominal leader on the permit, but Dawa Steven Sherpa went to Kangchenjunga and took over leadership after Liano left early for his Everest attempt.


David Liano (Mexico)

Appr: Heli to Ramche
Camps: BC(14/04,5550mm),C1(18/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6250m),C3(29/05,6900m),
xxx(29/04,13/05,6900m)
Left: 16/05/2017 (flew to Lukla)
Term: Abandoned at 6900m due to too much snow and no fixed ropes.

Liano went on his summit push. He stayed at C3 for two nights waiting for the fixing team to fix ropes; however, when the Sherpas decided to stop fixing due to too much snow he descended to BC on 14/05.

Oxygen:
Taken and used in C3 for the night (not for climbing).


Harshad Rao (India)

Appr: By jeep to Biratmur, then by car to Appukhola, then trekked to BC
Camps: BC(19/04,5550mm),C1(21/04,6000m),C2(30/04,6200m),C3(18/05,6800m),
C4(19/05,7300m),Smt(20/05)
Left: 26/05/2017
Hired: 1
Term: Success.

Rao started on 19/05 from C4 at 8:3 0pm, summited on 20/05 at 9:50 am, back to C4 at 9:30 pm. On 21/05, started at 12:30 pm from C4, down BC at 8:30 pm.

Oyxgen:
Taken from C3 to summit to C3 for climbing.
Used on way up oxygen resting at C4; on descent, not used at C4 for resting.

Sherpa:
Sonam [Tshering] Sherpa


Antonis Sykaris (Greece)
Fotios Theocharis (Greece)

Appr: Badrapur by flight, drove to Kadim via Bidim, trekked to BC
Camps: BC(19/04,5550mm),C1(21/04,6100m),C2(29/04,6250m),C3(18/05,6870m),
C4(19/05,7300m),Smt(20/05)
Left: 26/05/2017 (by foot)
Hired: 2
Term: Success.

On 19/05 started at 7 pm from C4, summited on 20/05 at 8:11 am.

Both members had Sherpas helping to carry bottles of oxygen during summit push.

Team was back to C4 at 1 pm. Theocharis straight to BC. Sykaris slept at C3, on 21/05 back to BC.

On 26/05 by foot through complicated Yalung moraine to Tseram in 12 hours.

On 27/05 from Tseram to KTM by heli transfer with stop at Taplejung.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C4 to smt to C4.

Sherpas:
Pemba Tshering Sherpa (old), to summit
Pemba Nuru Sherpa (young), to summit


Arjun Vajpai (India)
Alessandro d'Emilia (Italy)

Appr: Badrapur by flight; bus to village before Yamphudin; trekked to Tseram
in 5 days; heli to BC.
Camps: BC(18/04,5550mm),C1(22-24/04,6100m),C2(23-25/04,6250m),C3(18/05,6900m),
C4(19/05,7300m),Smt(20/05)
Left: 26/05/2017 (by foot)
Hired: 2
Term: Success.

After 5-6 days in BC, slept 2 consecutive nights at C1 and C2. Would be the first and only rotation.

On 19/05 started from C4 at 7:30 pm, summited on 20/05 at 8:10 am, 10 min after fixing team Sherpas. Stayed 10 min on top then down; were many people there. On same day back to BC at 7 pm. Round trip from C4 to summit to BC in 24 hours.

Waited for airlift at BC but because of bad weather it didn't come. Started to walk back to Tseram on 26/05. On 27/05 eventually had helicopter to KTM.

Harshad Rao reached the top 1 hour after them, about 9 am? ONGC first group members also, as Dawa Steven and Sherpas.

Rodrigo Vivanco summited without oxygen summited on same day, at around noon. They met him 200m below the top [going up], moving slower.

Oxygen:
Taken from C3 to summit to C3 (members and Sherpas)
Alessandro working, filming, so oxygen necessary to work.
Arjun planned to use oxygen from the first time. Hard conditions made it better
with it.

Sherpas:
Pasang Sherpa (Alessandro)
Tendin Sherpa (Arjun)


Caspar Van de Grevel (Netherlands)
Willem Van Rooijen (Netherlands)

Appr: Biratnagar by flight, bus to Kandim, trekked to BC.
Camps: BC(18/04,5400mm),C1(21/04,5900m),C2(22/04,6200m),C3(29/04,6900m),xxx
Left: 21/05/2017
Hired: 0
Term: Abandoned at 6900m due to altitude sickness.

Caspar Van de Vevel could not reach C3 on 17/05, stopping 200m below it due to altitude sickness beginning. Short of breath, no energy, no power. Decided to abandon the expedition on that day, as De Vevel not in shape and seing others going up to summit (with oxygen), somewhat pulling down their own moral resource. Rooijen reached C3, took off the gear there and joined his companion on descent to finish to clear off their camps on the mountain.

Oxygen: Not used, not taken


Gia Tortladze (Georgia)

Tortladze did not reach BC. He turned back in Ramche due to sickness.