원정 개요

Approach: Villages on the way up: Nar, Chhubche Kharka, Banda, Thangsumda, Labse glacier, all in Labse Khola. Way down via Loha Khola.

BC 29/05 5450m (afoot of the Labse glacier)
C1 05/31 5850m (glacier camp)
C2 02/06 6147m ("Loha Pass")
HPt 03/06 6200m by all member above "Loha Pass" towards Margot Himal.

Climb abandoned on June 3 due to weather conditions.

Left BC: 3 June (did not go back to BC)
Fixed rope: none
Oxygen use: not taken not used

Route: NW glacier, NE ridge to Margot Himal, N ridge to Jomsom Himal.

Project was to climb Teri Himal, then Margot Himal/Jomsom Himal/Amotsang from pass between 6185m and 6385m ("Margot Himal" christened by Lionel Chatain, being the name of his daughter). Eventually went from Nar to Phu via newly christened "Loha Pass (6147m) instead, result of years of exploration with many expeditions since 2002 (back then: "Looking for Amotsang" project).

Arrival at BC of Amotsang on June 4 at 5600m.

June 8 at Chaykho, village usable as a base camp for Tilche (Tilje in HD).

June 9 Rajan, Dhan, Dipen and Paulo made a common attempt on Tilche northwest ridge (official summit on ministry permit list). Put an intermediate camp at 4820m. Went maximum up to 5250m.

In 2017, Lionel Chatain made an attempt on Amostang (not recorded in HD), climbing a peak called/christened Tribeni (not on the official permit list).

Hired:
Dhan Bahadur Magar, at Loha pass (JOMS) / 5250m (TILJ)
Dipen Nuppa Bhote, at Loha pass (JOMS) / 5250m (TILJ)
Rajan Lama Bhote, at Loha pass (JOMS) / 5250m (TILJ)