한국산악아카이브 | KOREA MOUNTAIN ARCHIVE

본문 바로가기

히말라얀 데이터베이스

⌂ 처음 화면
← 산의 원정 기록

Jannu East Slovenia Expedition 1993

Jannu East · 1993 · 가을 (3) · Slovenia

원정 개요

BC below East Face on Yalung Glacier
ABC at glacier Khumbakarna Glacier
High point on East Face.

Safe climb only 2:00 am to 6:00 am and then rock avalanche could start. Began push on 7th and climbed 200m of rock wall that day. 8th started 5:00 am and got to 6500m in total 9 hours climbing (5:00-8:30 am and 2:30-9:00 pm). 9th stone and snow avalanches all day so stayed in biv. 10th at 1:30 am started up (Robnik stayed in biv sick while Debelak and Zerovnik continued climb) and at 5:30 am reached 6800m when too dangerous from stone avalanching. Rapelled down to 6500m. That night started rapelling down and snow avalanches at 5700m hit area but they kept there places and not hurt. Weather clear but too warm. Reached ABC 11th. Climb finished. Zerovnik will never return to this face: too dangerous.

  • 내부 원정 ID9891
  • 원본 EXPIDJANE93301
  • 대장Dusan Debelak
  • 루트 (Route)E Face of E Smt
  • 최고 도달고도6800m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유산악 상태 (5)

참가자 3명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Dusan DebelakSloveniaLeader---
August RobnikSloveniaClimber---
Tomaz ZerovnikSloveniaClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Hawley, Elizabeth · 1993 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1993 · 잡지 (3) · HIGH
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199420403/Asia-Nepal-Kunbhakarna-East-Attempt · 1993 · 웹사이트 (5) ·