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Swiss Jannu Expedition

Jannu · 1984 · 가을 (3) · Switzerland

원정 개요

BC near small lake beside Yamatari Glacier
Biv1 on glacier (unnamed)
Biv2 at beginning of ridge
Biv3 on plateau below ridge.

No fixed camps above Base. After 2nd biv went down to BC for 2-day rest. 1st team from BC on 22 Oct and 2nd team next day to bivs at same sites. Alpine style ascent as no fixed ropes, oxygen, Sherpas or fixed camps, but did climb in two installments since not acclimatized in first push. Most difficult problem was wind. Technical difficulties with gendarme at top section and 100m ice wall across glacier above C1 and section of ridge with steep powder snow.

Rubin got altitude sickness at last biv with 1st group.

  • 내부 원정 ID989
  • 원본 EXPIDJANU84301
  • 대장Martin Fischer
  • 루트 (Route)S Ridge (French 1962 rte)
  • 최고 도달고도7711m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 6명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Martin FischerSwitzerlandLeader성공--
Daniel AnkerSwitzerlandClimber성공--
Andreas (Res) LeibundgutSwitzerlandClimber성공--
Bruno RankwilerSwitzerlandClimber성공--
George RubinSwitzerlandClimber---
Christian Von AlmenSwitzerlandClimber성공--

출처·참고문헌

Fischer, Martin · 1984 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1984 · 잡지 (3) · MM
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198525202/Asia-Nepal-Kumbhakarna-Jannu · 1984 · 웹사이트 (5) ·