원정 개요

Went to Kangchenjunga BC 12th April and to acclimatize and went to C2 on Kangchenjunga. Also pitched tent and stocked it with some food, etc. and from this tent started climb at 4 pm on 29th April. Took biv sack, stove and gas, 2 sleeping bags and 2 ropes. Fixed no rope on climb. At 9 am on 30th April rested at 6400m for 6 hrs. Then on up to 6800m where stopped at 9 pm on 30th. 1 May 8 am started up again; left biv gear at 6900m expecting to reach top that day but at 7050m stopped at 2 pm bad weather (winds and avalanche of new snow). Waited at 7050m 9 hrs for better weather when snowfall and avalanches stopped. Down to 6900m at 1 am 2 May stayed until 9 am. Now down to 6600m in 3 hrs, there snowfall and avalanches then after another 2 hrs to biv at 6550m at 4 pm in big crevase. 3 May 1 am down and at bottom of face at 6 am, to tent at 5430m at 7 am. Climb now finished.

Slight frostbite, very tired and lost 10 kg each (had eaten only 200 gms biscuits). Entire face "extreme difficulty plus" with 5 pitches more difficulty (2 ice, 3 mixed rock and ice). Route possible: if weather good "we would be on top on 1st of May in evening." Ice couloir up center. Jannu in clouds every day of entire expedition's climb: Jannu had the worst weather.