원정 개요

BC at Yalung Glacier
ABC on rock at pillar before higher glacier
High point at East Face of East Peak.

Temporary BC on 6th was not right place, but porters said it was and so foggy and snowing couldn't see where they were; moved to correct BC one km further but only 55m higher. Humar and Bozic went to acclimatize on East Pillar of Jannu leading to it's SE Ridge; climbed to 6000m on this pillars on 19th, having started this climb on 16th and back down to glacier and BC on 20th. Jannu's East Face "totally different" from pix of 1992; black ice and many big mushrooms covered wtih powder snow, very dangerous condition of snow. Humar and Bozic left BC 25th but weather now brought clouds and snow falling so spent 2 days at ABC. 27th Humar crossed higher glacier with Bozic for 2 hours; crossing glacier shaped like amphitheater with powder avalanches falling constantly and depositing deep snow up chest-deep; also very deep crevasses narrow, was 6 km wide but with no place 2m only and he jumped it, late afternoon had to get out of avalanches debris area and had to start up an ice and rock debris pillar on East Face south end; up 1st 30m of face overhanging section in series of very dangerous and difficult obstacles and Humar hit hard by hard ice "candle." Biv at about 5:30 pm. 28th climbed system of overhanging rock cracks which hard to climb inside of and then on outside; they were polished granite and very little friction and impossible to fix; "very risky" section 20 meters high, then mushroom ridges, "nightmare" of up and down to avoid mushroom and avalanching. At 6200m found rock ledge and bived there, half hanging. 29th climbed very fast finally and in 6 hours climbed face, then got lost in overhanging mushrooms and found thinnest couloir which was black ice holes, powder snow, which had to clear away, both sides 2 huge balloons of powder snow to overhanging cauliflower cornices, fell 3 times, then traversed 20m on night side on a mushroom and biv on snowhole on ledge he dug deep into the mushroom; left gear in snowhole. Tried to find route beyond and took 4 hours to gain 20m. Returned to biv in snowhole at 6850m. Night was very cold and 100 km per hour wind "quite fresh air" blowing powder snow down his throat. Was confident he could reach shoulder on SE Ridge leading to top, but "nightmare came early in morning (of 30th) where I tried to reach this shoulder" only 20m above but "unreachable" through mushrooms and here he could find no way past them in 5 attempts in different couloirs and mushroom, so abandoned attempt at about 7000m after 4-1/2 hours of futile attempts. At 1:00 pm packed up and started down, find way through fog at 4:00 pm and snow fell and fell 5 times on rock pillars and once lower jumped 2 crevasses and got to ABC at just before 7:00 pm. No tracks to follow because avalanching had filled them. BC on 21st. Won't say face is impossible but in its present condition, got harder and and harder, riskier and riskier as one goes higher.