원정 개요

BC at Tsaurabang, Myagdi Glacier, established at 3700m on 4 Dec, was destroyed by wind from an avalanche off the West Face on the same day and relocated on the same day 100m lower.

ABC behind big stones in 2nd location
C1 midway between ABC and NE Col near end of 1st icefall
C2 at NE Col
C3 on ridge just below step
C4 (A) on ridge just left of it on shelf under small serac in cave.

Porters refused to carry loads beyond Tsaurabang because of fear of avalanches and last pitch beyond Tsaurabang is very difficult for load carrying. 1st ABC destroyed by wind-carried stones and sand and another one placed 200m away (but not up) from it behind stones. Had decided N Face impossible and changed to NE Ridge route; decided on evening of 14th Dec because face very great danger of avalanche (and LO gave no difficulty). 20th Dec to 12th Jan almost fortnight of snowfall. 1st summit attack on 15th by Czok and Kukuczka got to 7800m at 1:00 pm at old camp; went down again because realized this rate of ascent beyond camp as too slow for summit in snowy weather; got to 7900m at 2:30 pm then to C3 on 15th and C2 16th. 2nd summit team 2 members reached C4.

Czok frostbitten toes beginning with avalanche on 20 Jan which damaged his overboots and became more frostbitten during 21st summit attack - other frostbite cases.

On 15th-16th Jan in horrible weather, strong hurricane wind and descended to C2 with Machnik having frostbitten fingers. Czok and Kukuczka moved up from C2 to C4 17 Jan. 20 Jan they were hit by snow avalanches, damaging tent. Moved C4 2m higher while Kuras in shock and frostbite from avalanche descended.


Czok - 8 Feb 1985

Told to Czok: Back at about 7500m near ridge [body] seen during 1st attack (probably died here). Perhaps Sherpa sirdar from expedition spring 1979; otherwise someone from 1950's.

No technical difficulties on climb up. Of 23 days Kukuczka was on mountain 2 days clear which meant strong wind while cloudy days not so much wind but snowfall which was problem because deep and avalanching which lightly buried first C4. 21 Jan cloudy with light wind till on summit ridge when somewhat stronger. Left camp at 7:00 am and on top 3:30 pm: some places deep snow. On descent had to biv because couldn't find route and after wandering in dark so, made cave and waited for light and then no problem to descend. No further summit attempts because 6 frostbite cases. North Face impossible: strong wind and much snow.

6 members frostbite: Czok's toes black, others no so much frozen (fingers). Avalanches buried C4 but no one hurt.

Kukuczka arrived at ABC 30 Dec and left it with the team on 25 Jan.