원정 개요

BC 22,24-25/05 5100m
IC 28/05 4800m
ABC 01/05 6400m
C1 05/05 7000m
C2 07/05 7900m
C3 16/05 8300m
Smt 16/05 by Ms. Lakpa, Kasang Dawa at 5:40 am
Smt 17/05 by Team 1 consisting of 10 members and 9 Sherpas
Smt 18/05 by Team 2 consisting of 9 members and 10 Sherpas
Smt 19/05 by Team 3 consisting of 10 members and 8 Sherpas.

Team 1 left C3 at 11 pm (NST) of 16 May and got to the top between 5-5:30 am of 17 May all together. They stayed on summit between 30 minutes to one hour and got back to C3 between 9 am to 12 noon. Same day all went down to ABC.

Team 2 left C3 at 10 pm of 17 May for the summit and got to the top at 7 am of 18 May. They stayed on summit for an hour and returned C3 at 11 am, then continued to ABC except Kochubeev who spent night at North Col and next day went down to ABC.

Team 3 started from C3 between 10-11 pm slowly on 18 May and got to the summit between 7-9:30 am of 19 May. They stayed on summit 30 minutes and returned C3 at 10 am, last one arrived at 3:30 pm. Then got back to ABC. 3 guides and 2 clients slept at N Col and next day to ABC.

Accidents: Pasang Nurbu climbing with Team 1: body found face down dead in the mushroom area. He was the last one in the team and was very slow; client told him to go back, but he continued. Body found by the team on their descent.

Team 1: Summit on 17 May
Members (10):
Abramov, Balakin, Belkovich, Logachev, Popov, Semeshkin, Suchanski,
Alexander Tertychnyy, Dmitry Tertychnyy, Tomilin
Sherpas (9):
Ang Dorchi, Lakpa Gyaljen, Lakpa Nurbu, Mingma Dorchi, Mingma Tenje,
Nima Dindu, Nurbu Chhiring, Nurbu, Pasang

Team 2: Summit on 18 May
Members (8):
Kochubeev, Kotlyar, Markevich, Mezova, Rostovtsev, Safonov,
Shakhnovvskiyy, Zelenkova
Sherpas (10):
Lakpa Galu, Lakpa Gyaljen, Lakpa Tenji, Ngima Ongda, Nurbu,
Pasang, Pemba Dorjee, Pemba Nurbu, Richung, Rinjen

Team 3: Summit on 19 May
Members (10):
Bakulin, Demyanenko, Ermakov, Gurgov, Iunusov, Iunusova,
Mariev, Murtazina, Samarina, Shakirov
Sherpas (8):
Ang Dawa, Ang Dawa, Dorchi, Lakpa, Muktu Lakpa, Nurbu,
Phurbu Kusang, Sange

High Points:
Kovalov to 7900m – throat problem
Borkov to 8700m (3rd Step)

Fixed rope: contributed money.

Oxygen: Members from ABC-summit-ABC, Sherpas from 8300m-summit-8300m.

Records:
1. Alexander and Dimtry Tertychnyy (father and son completed 7 Summits together)
2. Dimtry Tertychnyy youngest to summit from Europe
3. Ms. Samarina youngest woman from Russia
4. Alex Abramov nine times summit Russian record
5. Mrs. Mezova second time summit
6. Ms. Lakpa summited nine times
7. Demyanenko and Mrs Murtazina couple completed 7 Summits
8. Iunusov and Mrs. Iunusova couple sumitted