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Yeti Dojin Dhaulagiri I Expedition

Dhaulagiri I · 1984 · 겨울 (4) · Japan

원정 개요

BC at usual site
C1 at North Col by 3 Japanese in snowcave
High point on ridge.

Ozaki to BC on 4th Dec because very strong wind (completely different from earlier winds - blowing much snow like avalanche - kept filling cave - had to sleep in biv tent), so gave up because too uncomfortable and "I want to watch my son's face" (son was with mother below BC). Since now with new family, summit not such big ambition. Endo and Matsumoto stayed at C1 and on 6th Dec reached C2 site with loads slept at C1 (had spent 4th carrying loads from deposit below C1 and resting 5th). 7th Dec Matsumoto's face showed edema and too dangerous for Endo go up alone. Winter, so expedition finished. Even camp's tent was picked by wind with members in it on 8/9th Dec.

  • 내부 원정 ID986
  • 원본 EXPIDDHA184401
  • 대장Haruyuki Endo
  • 루트 (Route)NE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도6700m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유기술적 난이도 (10)

참가자 3명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Haruyuki EndoJapanLeader---
Masaki MatsumotoJapanClimber---
Takashi OzakiJapanClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Hawley, Elizabeth · 1984 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198529303/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Winter-Attempt · 1984 · 웹사이트 (5) ·