원정 개요

BC 18/04 5350m
C1 27/04 5900m
C2 29/04 6440m
C3 20/04 7000m
C4 21/05 7900m
Smt 23/05 by Fuller with Pemarinji, Guinchard with Pemba Sherpa, Kushwaha with
Sange Sherpa at 5:30 am, Tomordy with Tenji Sherpa at 5:45 am,
Ang Dawa at 9:50 am and Quillen at 10:00 am.

Summit team left C4 between 7 pm and 9 pm. Straightforward climb. They spent between 10 and 30 minutes on the summit, then descended to C4, where they arrived between 9 am and 1 pm. They all stayed at C4 apart from Fuller and Knight.

Knight reached C4 on 21/05. She developed an infection in her eye. She wears contact lenses. They thought it was snowblindness and was hoping that it was getting better so she could go for the summit. When the other teammates headed for the summit Knight's eye was not better and she stayed at C4 while the others went to the summit. On his descent, Fuller picked her up from C4 and they descended to C2. Knight was almost blind and it took them six hours to get down. On 24/05 Knight was heli-vaced from C2 to Lukla, stayed one night there and then was flown to Kathmandu on 25/05.

Kushwaha was intending to summit Lhotse as well, but abandoned the idea after his Everest climb.

25/05 everybody down to BC. Team left BC on 27/05.

Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members and Sherpas.


Lhotse Summit:

Lhotse Smt 22/05 by Matthew Williams and Lhakpa Tendu Sherpa at 9 am,
Thomas Taylor and Pasang Nuri Sherpa at 3 pm.

Summit team left C4 at 2 am. Straightforward climb. They stayed an average of about 10 minutes on the summit.

Williams descended to C2, while Taylor, Lhakpa Tendu and Pasang Nuri stayed at C4. They descended to C2 on 23/05. On 24/05, Taylor walked over a snow bridge, which collapsed. He fell in but fortunately he was on a rope, but fractured his ankle (his crampon got caught in the ice and then a piece of ice hit his ankle and twisted it). He continued to BC and was helicoptered on 25/05. He went to CIWEC where they strapped it up.

Helko Weiner reached to below the Yellow Band (7550m). He had problems with his feet. They were numb due to wrong-sized boots and he turned back. The others continued.

Taylor had problems with his regulators and only used one bottle to the summit. He thinks the reason he was so slow was that he was not getting enough oxygen.

Sherpas:
Sange Sherpa, Diding-5, Makalu-Barun, 21/05/1971
Lhakpa Tendu (Lhakpa Kormu), Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, 28/03/1977
Pema Rinji, Patle


Neal Kushwaha by email, 04/06/2018:

Nothing of note took place on the day for me. However, on the 20th, John Quillen, Dawa Sherpa, Sange Sherpa, and I saved a man's [Chhering Dorje Sherpa] life at the base of the Lhotse Face. He was hit in the head by a falling rock. His head split open. Sange and I radioed for a heli and then walked him down to the end of C2. Here"s the story:

http://www.bigclimbs.com/near-death-on-the-lhotse-face-everest-2018/