원정 개요

BC at west side of NE Ridge
C1 very far from BC, southwest of BC
C2 just below North Face's big well
High point at North Face.

Lee climbed to 7100m with his sirdar; they gave up when they could not find a route above that point.

Approach to BC difficult because snow, hence BC lower altitude than planned. After made C2 had enough climbing gear but not fuel for many days to fix much rope on very steep route. 31st Jan took climbing equipment but no biv equipment and found very difficult to find route in heavily crevassed icefall area. In 10 hrs reached 7100m which think was last of steep difficult part of climb, but late weather closing in so descended to C2 at 8:30 pm. Then gave up climb because Lee at altitude too long and very weak and descended to BC. Weather bad during time on mountain. Wind and snow - everyday had to remake route.