원정 개요

The Seven Summit Treks Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Seven Summit Treks provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


Jose Alcalde (Spain)
Pablo Tornil (Spain)

Camps: BC(22/04,5350m),C1(25/04,6000m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(12/05,7100m),
C4(13/05,7900m),xxx(14/05.8600m)
Left: 16/05/2018 by heli to Namche
Hired: 2
Term: Abandoned at 8600m due to cold feet of Tornil (slight frostbite on right
toe).

High-point team of Alcalde, Tornil, Dawa and Mingma left C4 at 8:30 pm on 13/05. Not too busy. Perfect weather. Tornil had a very cold right foot and he decided to turn back due to it, so they descended from 8600m at about 12:30 am. Alcalde was happy to go down with him. They descended to C4 where they arrived at 3 am. They checked the foot and massaged it. They slept for about three hours and descended to C3, where they stayed for two hours in a tent that was not theirs, then continued to C2. The weather was very bad. They met Rustin (the Russian who died on Lhotse) between C2 and C3. They say he was coughing and very unwell, but he insisted on going up. They reached C2 at about noon. On 15/05 they arrived at BC.

The Chinese woman (who is said to have died) was near them. She was super-exhausted apparently. She was apparently with Seven Summits.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C3 to high point to C3 by members
From C4 to high point to C4 by Sherpas

Sherpas
Dawa Sherpa
Mingma Sherpa


Javier Camacho (Spain)

Camps: BC(20/04,5350m),C1(5900m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(27/04,7000m),
C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
Left: 20/05/2018 by heli
Hired: 1
Term: Success (10 am)

Camacho had gone down to Lukla to recover from his chest infection. When he heard that the weather was good, he left 12/05 by helicopter. On 13/05 he started his summit push from BC.

Camacho and Jangbu left C4 at 9 pm. Straightforward climb on the way up. Many people on the route. They stayed about 15 minutes on the summit and started their descent. His glasses did not close completely below the eyes and he got a lot of wind through. He had had a chest infection, which did not help. On the way down, he started having problems with his eyes. He thinks it was conjunctivitis. He reached C4 around 4 pm.

His eyes got worse and stuck together. He told Jangbu to contact SST as he was worried about his eyes. He took some medicine and his eyes improved. On 17/05 his eyes were a little bit better in the morning and he was able to descend to C2 on his own. On 18/05 he descended to BC. At BC he found his eye drops and it improved. The doctors at the HRA confirmed that he had conjunctivitis.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C3 to top to C4.

Sherpa:
Jangbu Sherpa


Mathieu Durand (Canada)

Camps: BC(5350m),C1(6100m),C2(6500m),xxx
Left: 05/05/2018 by heli to Namche
Hired: 1
Term: Abandoned at 6500m due to eye hemorrhage

From Durand’s website (www.mathieudurand.com/blog)

As planned, I went to Everest ER in the morning, and got cleared from a medical standpoint to climb the mountain again. So, I guess the stars got aligned for me somewhere. I spent that day resting, preparing my backpack again to go up for my last rotation before our summit attempt. The goal was to reach camp 3.

As a fourth time in the icefall, it was almost a routine task now. Go to bed early, wake around 3h10 am for a quick 3h30 am breakfast and be ready to leave by 4 am. Walked by the Puja, light up a little fire, pray for a while for safe passage, throw some rice and then start heading towards the icefall.

I felt strong and confident that morning. Moving fast, it was a much different than my previous walk in the icefall. I was already seeing myself enjoying the sun at camp 2 and talking down camp 3. All of sudden, everything changed. Started to be dizzy, my right eye went blurry and felt weird. Sat down on an ice block. Calmed down and relaxed for a minute. I looked at Jangbu telling him to come see me. When I stood up again, my eye was worst. Even Jangbu said something like “external ok, but internal problem” and made a sign that my eye was not ok. That was enough for me to call it a day.

Sitting down on that ice block, it felt like the whole world had stopped. I knew exactly what that meant for me. It felt like 10-15 minutes (probably only 1 or 2 in reality) The icefall was beautiful, the sun was warm. I started crying and letting my emotions out. Jangbu hugged me and somehow found the right words in that moment. What a great Sherpa and human being he is.

We started our way down, slowly, the icefall is technical. Imagine with only 1 eye. At the bottom, near crampon point, I sat down again in a much safer area then before. I cried for a while, looked at the icefall, once again hugged Jangbu and promised myself that I would come back. The walk to base camp felt like I was walking in slow motion. Got to base camp, had a cup of tea with Peter Hamor (a real badass mountaineer, you should check him out) and then went to Everest ER once again.

This time, of course, I didn’t get the medical clearance to go back up again. I had to go down to Kathmandu and get my eye checked but I’ve decided to call it a day and come back home. Even if the doctors would have said that my eye was ok, I didn’t feel like risking my eye to climb a mountain. I’m willing to sacrifice a lot to summit Everest, but an eye is not part of the list.

Oxygen: Taken, not used


Justin Ionescu (Romania)
Gina Badescu (USA/Romania)

Camps: BC(20/04,5350m),C1(24/04,5900m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(16/04,7000m),
C4(17/05,7900m),xxx(18/05,8400m)
Left: 20/05/2018
Hired: 2
Term: Abandoned at 8400m due to lateness in the day.

Left C2 on 26/04, back to BC. Started summit push on 15/05 from C2. To C3 on 16/05, passed by a Russian [Rustem Amirov attempting Lhotse] who died just above C3. He was still alive at this stage, but barely. Arrived C4 very late on 17/05, only had two hours to rest. Pushed on to Balcony, but not enough time remaining for summit. Back to C4, slept there. From C4 back to C2 on next day. Descended to BC, arrived on 19th. Heli from EBC to Lukla on 20/05.

Difficult to get exact reason for abandonment. Sounds like they were too late at Balcony on first attempt, and then lost resolve to try again from C4 due to being affected by having seen the Russian casualty.

Badescu had been hoping to be the first Romanian woman to climb Everest.

Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 by all.

Sherpas:
Pasang Bhote, Makalu
Namja Sherpa, Makalu


Shivangi (India)
Rohtash (India)

Camps: BC(13/04,5300m),C1(22/04,6100m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(14/05,7200m),
C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
Left: 20/05/2018 by heli
Hired: 3
Term: Success (8:21 am)

The summit team of two and three Sherpas left C4 at 8:15 pm on 15 May and reached summit at 8:21 am on 16 May. They stayed on summit for 30 minutes, then descended to C4 where they arrived at 5:30 pm. Next day 17 May to C2 and following day 18 May to BC. The summit day weather was very good.

Oxygen:
Taken and used by members from C3-summit-C3, Sherpas from C4-summit-C4.

Sherpas:
Umesh Dawa (for Rohtash)
Italian Dawa + one more (for Shivangi)


Clay Teewary (UK/India)

Appr: Lukla->Pheriche (trekking), Pheriche to BC by heli (due to knee strain)
Camps: BC(22-23/04,5350m),C1(29/04,5900m),C2(30/04,6400m),C3(16/05,7000m),
Lhotse.C4(17/05,7800m),xxx
Left: 20/05/2018 by heli to Lukla, then Ktmdu
Hired: 2
Term: Abandoned at 7800m due to lack of confidence in Sherpa and exhaustion.

Attempted summit twice:

On rotation 01/05 reached crampon point at around 6800m, but turned around as too late in the day. Back to C2, stayed C2 on 01/05, then to BC from where returned to KTM from via heli.

Returned on 12/05 to BC from Kathmandu via heli. Stayed one night, moved to C1 again on 13/05 for summit attempt. Reached C2 on 14/05. On morning of 15/05 Dorchi Sherpa became unwell; also battery on radio ran out, no spare, and started late again from C2. Again reached crampon point too late, had to turn round.

Made second attempt on 16/05, this time with Pasang Sherpa. Reached C3, stayed at night of 16/05 at C3. Pasang also becoming unwell. 17/05 morning was delayed in starting for C4 as inexperienced Sherpa (in Teewary's words) had forgotten to boil water during night. Reached Lhotse C4 at 7800m on 17/05. Lost confidence in Sherpa as oxygen was running out, and says Sherpa was prioritizing water rather than oxygen. Was using 3 litres [flow rate] at this stage.

Lhotse C4 to Everest C3 again by 11 am on 18/05, so went on and descended to C2. One night at C2 on 18/05, then reached base camp on 20/05. Heli back from BC to Lukla, then heli from Lukla to KTM.

Climb abandoned due to: Teewary says 80% lack of confidence in Sherpa 2, 20% as he was exhausted.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C2 on second attempt; Pasang Sherpa used after C3.

Sherpas:
Dawa Dorchi, Makalu-Barun
Pasang, Makalu-Barun


Christoffer Wang (Norway)

Camps: BC(11/04,5400m),C1(20/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6400m),xxx
Left: 29/04/2018 by heli to CIWEC in Ktmdu
Hired: 1
Term: Abandoned at 6400m due to pain.

After he finished his first rotation, Wang suffered from loss of appetite and some pain in the back. He decided to fly to Kathmandu on 24/04 to regain some energy and to see a doctor. The doctor diagnosed a chest infection and gave him antibiotics. He flew back to Lukla on 27/04. Once back in Lukla the pain got worse, and even much worse when Wang got back to EBC. He saw a doctor again who again diagnosed chest infection. The pain became unbearable and Wang flew by helicopter to CIWEC hospital from base camp on 29/04. The doctors couldn't find anything, but the next day Wang did a CT scan and pulmonary embolism (blood clots) were discovered. It's likely to be related to the altitude, but it could be genetic too according to Wang. Wang is feeling better day by day and is planning to fly home on 11/05. He will receive medicine medication for the next few months.

Oxygen: Taken, not used

Sherpa:
Pemba Chhiri


Dabuti Sherpa (Nepal)

Camps: BC(16/04,5350m),C1(26/04,5900m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(12/05,7200m),
C4(13/05,7900m),Smt(14/05)
Left: 17/04/2018
Hired: 1
Term: Success (7:30 am)

Dabuti with Pasang Gyalzen reached summit at 7:30 am on 14 May; earlier they left C4 at 7:30 pm on 13 May. The summiters stayed on summit between 15-20 minutes and went down to C4 at 3 pm. Next day 15 May they went down to BC. It was good weather at the beginning, but on the summit it was bad snowfall and windy. There were about 40-50 climbers on the summit.

Oxygen: Dabuti from C3-summit-C2, Pasang Gyalzen from C3-summit-C4.

Sherpa:
Pasang Gyalzen, Makalu (this is 3rd time Everest)