원정 개요

BC 17/04 5350m
C1 21/04 5900m
C2 26/04 6350m
C3 14/05 7000m
C4 15/05 7900m
Smt 16/05 by Romancini, Padawa, Dawa Jabu at 11:30 am
17/05 by Wallace, Dorje Gyalgen at 6:30 am, Mueller-Zantop, Phurten Lama
at 8:30 am, Rivers Bulkeley, Pasang Yila Sherpa at 8:45 am
21/05 by Windridge, Tenjin Bhote at 4:30 am, Dupety, Dorje Gyalzen (again),
Hynes and Padawa (again) at 5:30 am, Thierry, Chandra Rai at 7 am.

This was the first summit wave of Todd's ICE 8000 expedition. All summiters arrived at the South Col on 15/05. They arrived very late. The two women were quite tired and decided to have an extra day at the South Col. Romancini, Padawa, Wallace and Dorje Gyalgen left C4 at 11:30 pm on 15/05. Wallace felt too tired and decided to stay with the two women, so he and Dorje Gyalgen turned back to C4. Romancini and Padawa carried on. The route was extremely busy that day. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 5:30 pm.

17/05 summit team left C4 at 9:15 am on 16/05. Straightforward climb. Wallace was breaking trail for while. There were about 30 Chinese from the north side on the summit. Wallace and Dorje Gyalgen spent about one hour on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 11 am. They spent another night at the South Col as Wallace had a bit of trouble with his eyes.

Mueller-Zantop and Rivers Bulkeley descended to C4, where they arrived at about 1 pm. On 18/05 everyone descended to C2. Wallace, Dorje Gyalgen, Rivers Bulkeley, Pasang Yila Sherpa continued to BC, Mueller-Zantop stayed at C2 for another night.

21/05 summit team left C4 at 9 pm on 20/05. Straightforward climb. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit, then descended to C4, where they spent until midday and descended to C2, where they arrived between 6 pm and 8 pm.

Everyone back at BC on 19/05.

Saunders reached C2. He never intended to climb.

Left BC on 23/05 by heli.

Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3.

Sherpas:
Pasang Dawa (Padawa), Pangboche, 18/01/77
Dawa Jabu Bhote, Hatiya-1
Dorje Gyalzen, Pangboche, 16/07/72
Phurten Lama (Dawa Phurten Bhote), Hatiya-3, 30/10/84
Pasang Yila Sherpa, Pangboche, 01/03/78
Tenjin Bhote, Hatiya-2,
Chandra Shor Rai, Taksindu-9, 25/08/73