원정 개요

BC 14/04 5350m
C1 21/04 5900m
C2 23/04 6400m
C3 13/05 7000m
C4 16/05 7900m
Smt 17/05 by Booth, Jones-Warner, Chayang Jyalbu, and Darche Bhote [at 8:40 am]
by 18/05 by McDonald, McNally, Chhebi Bhote, Gyan Bahadur,
Pimba Bhote at 5:30 am?

Lhotse Smt: 18/05 by Booth at 5:30 am.

17/05 left C4 at around 9 pm. They spent about an hour on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at about 10:30 am.

Jones-Warner and Jabbu stayed the night and Booth stayed until midnight and continued to climb Lhotse. Booth reached the Lhotse summit on 18/05 at 5:30 am, then descended to C2 from Lhotse summit, while Jones-Warner, Jyalbu and Dharche descended to C2 from C4 on 18/05.

18/05 summit team left C4 at around 9 pm. Weather clear and calm. They stayed about half an hour on the summit. McDonald and Chhebi descended to C3, where he stayed the night. McNally stayed at C4 unaccompanied (disobeying orders from the leader to descend). Gyan and Pemba descended to C2.

Mosedale reached C4 with Pemba Dorje (Pangboche) on 20/05. He had ascended with Petkov from C2 to C3 19/05. They spent a night at C3. Mosedale left C3 at 6:30 am with Pemba, Petkov left at 7 am with Chhebbi. When Mosedale reached C4 at about 11 am, settled down his tent and climbed the little hill northeast of the South Col. He returned to the South Col at about 2 pm and received a radio call from Kami Sherpa at BC telling him Petkov had died at about 7500m between the Yellow Band and upper C3. According to Chhebi Sherpa when they had left C3, Petkov was slow and tired and then they decided to turn around. He still had 50bar in his oxygen bottle and he probably died of a heart attack on his descent back to C3.

Mosedale and Pemba descended to Petkov and lowered the body to upper C3. They descended further down to their tent at C3, stayed the night and on 21/05 went back up to collect body and descended to lower C3 at 7100m from where the body was long-lined off. They descended to C2 stayed the night and everyone down at BC on 22/05.

Lemaire reached C2 on 19/05. He reached the bottom of the Lhotse Face and turned back due to diarrhea.

Everest North Side:

Jones-Warner spent one night in Kathmandu on 19/05 and left for Lhasa on 20/05. He was planning on climbing Everest from the north side. He only reached up to the North Col, but there was no oxygen at the North Col so he abandoned the climb.

Jones-Warner by email 28/05/2018:

"Summited south 17 may 8:40 and arrived back down at bc on the 18th. I flew from BC morning of the 19th to KTM.

I then left KTM morning of the 20th and flew to Lhasa arriving midday. Then drove arriving on North BC evening of the 21st.

Me, Nima and Kami left BC on the 22nd and went to ABC. First thing on the 23rd we left ABC to go to 8300m. When we got to the North Col we realised there was no oxygen, presumed stolen. Once we had found out the oxygen was missing, we descended straight back down to base camp. We didn't stay or hang around. Then following day left to come back to KTM.

The aim was to summit morning 24th as the weather closed in on the 25th. Had I been successful it would have been 2 summits in a week!"


Nuptse Attempt (same as Jon Gupta)

C3 01/05 6830m
HPt 02/05 7650m

Rope was fixed by AC Sherpas. Mosedale, Booth, Chhebi and Pemba Dorje together with Plain and Gupta left C3 at 2 am. Weather was good. At around 7300m at sunrise 5 am wind picked up. They grouped up with Guy Cotter and his group at 7400m, discussed and carried on. They reached their high point at about 9:30 am and the fixing team said it would be too avalanche-prone higher up. They descended to C3, packed up and reached C2 at 5:30 pm.

Left BC on 22/05 by heli.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members
From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.

Sherpas:
Chayang Jyalbu, Hatiya-1, 29/10/79
Dharche Bhote, Hatiya-2
Chhebi Bhote, Hatiya-1 (camp cook)
Gyan Bahadur Tamang, Rampur-8, 15/03/74
Pimba Bhote, Hatiya-1, 17/06/71