한국산악아카이브 | KOREA MOUNTAIN ARCHIVE

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Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition 2018

Everest · 2018 · 봄 (1) · New Zealand

원정 개요

BC 13/04 5350m
C1 22/04 5900m
C2 24/04 6440m
C3 17/05 7000m
C4 18/05 7900m
Smt 19/05 by Bradey, Read, Horn, Rinji Sherpa, Cheten Dorje at 4 am, Ervin,
Webster, Moore, Chhiring Namgyal, Dawa Wongchu and Chhewang Dorjee at
5:55 am, Smith, Davies, Rinji Palden, Guru Bhote, Pemba Nuru,
Pasang Angju, Pemba and Mingma Tenjing at 6:58 am.

Members left C4 at 9:30 pm, Smith left at 10 pm on 18/05. When they left it was perfect and calm. Winds picked up at around the South Summit (about 40 knots). Straightfoward climb. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit as it was very windy. Smith descended with Davies and when they reached the South Summit, Davies said that he could not see. He told Smith that he had not drunk any liquid for 12 hours. Smith gave him Dex and helped him descend, where they arrived at about 2 pm. The rest of the team also descended to C4, where they arrived at 10 am.

On 20/05 his vision had returned and Bradey helped him down the Lhotse Face. Rest of the team also down to C2 on 20/05.

Davies was heli-vaced from C2 on 21/05 due to his eye problems.

On 21/05 everyone back down at BC.

Bernard Masnyk reached 5450m on 16/04. He told Ang Dorje who was guiding him that this was his limit as he was 73 years old. He left the expedition on 19/04 by helicopter. Masnyk was a private client of Chuldim Dorje.

Chuldim Dorje (Ang Dorje) reached 6969m on the bottom of the Lhotse Face on the previous acclimatization. He damaged his ankle between C1 and C2 when an avalanche came down the West Shoulder on 29/04 and abandoned the expedition. He was rescued from C1 and was flown straight to Kathmandu.

Trott never made it to BC. She fell into a hole in a lodge in Kumjung and injured her knee on 06/04. She was flown back to Kathmandu at around 07/04.

Sherpas:
Rinji Palden, Pare, Khumbu, 04/11/1998
Pemba Nuru, Pangboche, 29/05/1995
Mingma Tenjing Sherpa, Khumjung, 07/05/1993
Rinji Sherpa, Gorakhani-5, 26/07/1975
Chhewang Dorje, Pangboche, 17/04/1981
Chuldim Dorje (Ang Dorje), Pangboche, 25/11/1964
Chheten Dorje, Pangboche, 28/05/1987
Chhiring Namgyal/Namgel, Pangboche,20/08/1991
Dawa Wongchu, Pangboche, 22/02/1994
Guru Bhote, Sankhuwasabha (1st Summit)
Pasang Angju, Sankhuwasabha
Pemba Sherpa, Taksindu (1st summit)

Note: Two additional Sherpas summited at 6:58 am based on information from Adv Cons website:
Kalzang Dorje, Pangboche
Phura Dorje, Gudel-4

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members
From 6700m (bottom of Lhotse face) to top and back by Webster, Ervin and Moore.
Sherpas from C4 to top to C4.

  • 내부 원정 ID9803
  • 원본 EXPIDEVER18106
  • 대장Robert Smith
  • 루트 (Route)S Col-SE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8849m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 24명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Robert Kelso SmithIreland/UKLeader성공사용-
Lydia Margaret Bakewell BradeyNew ZealandAssistant Leader성공사용-
James Michael DaviesNew ZealandClimber성공사용-
Gary Eugene ErvinUSAClimber성공사용-
Bradley Herbert HornAustraliaClimber성공사용-
Bernard Francis MasnykCanadaClimber (Pvt)---
Robin Michelle MooreUSAClimber성공사용-
Michael John ReadNew ZealandClimber성공사용-
Lynette Alison TrottAustraliaClimber---
Penelope Ann WebsterNew ZealandClimber성공사용-
Guru BhoteNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Pasang Wangchu/Angju BhoteNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Chewang Dorje SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Chheten Dorje SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Chhiring Namgyal/Namgel SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Chuldim Dorje (Ang Dorje) SherpaNepalClimbing Guide (Pvt)_---
Dawa Wongchu SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Kalzang Dorje SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Mingma Tenjing SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Pemba SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Pemba Nuru SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Phura Dorje SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Rinji (Rinzin) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Rinji Palden SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-

출처·참고문헌

https://www.adventureconsultants.com/latest-news/dispatches-everest-expedition-2018/ · 2018 · 웹사이트 (5) ·