원정 개요

High point on South Face.

Did new route from C1 to C2 with 1200m fixed rope on very hard rock in couloir (up which Sherpas refused to go even after rope fixed). Very difficult but shorter and more stable than older route, more direct. At C2 joined Polish route.

In Nov made route and carried loads to ABC; did not climb any trekking peaks. In mid-Dec more than 2m fresh snow from 15th Dec and on 17th Dec all down to BC because already 1m snow; 23-25th Dec more heavy snowfall with 2-1/2m snow lying at BC now. 29th Dec up to ABC, where found more than 1-1/2m snow, restablished camp with new tents. 31 Dec remade route to C1, where over 4m snow and only 1 tent found but other tent had all supplies. 3rd Jan snowfall again and by 6th Jan over 1-1/2m new snow between ABC and C1. 7th Jan all down to BC. Between C1 and C2 couloir now mostly iced and impossible to climb so expedition finished. Almost constant powder snow avalanches but did no harm.

Many problems with Sherpas and with getting porters to evacuate BC.