원정 개요

Approach: Flight to Jomson, Jeep to Chhusang, Tangye, Te Khola, Ghara, Ghuma Thanti, Parsye Khola, Damodar Kunda (5000m).

BC 03/05 5300m (Bhrikuti Shail BC)
Smt 05/05 by Drexler, Thallmair, Lawang Tamang, Yokachi Tamang at 11:15 am.

The trek took about six days. They set up their BC at Bhrikuti Shail BC. On 05/05, they left BC at 5:44 am. From BC they went towards the east and then climbed up the Thapulgnocha La (5328m) and stayed on the ridge that is right at the border with China.

The route was easy. No technical challenges. Compact rocks. Good to walk. It is more of a hike than a climb. They spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to BC, where they arrived at 3:15 pm.

On 06/05 they packed up their BC and went to Saribung BC (straight south). They climbed Saribung on 08/05.

Nagoru Far-East (1st Ascent)

BC 11/05 4900m (Nagoru Yak Kharka)
ABC 13/05 5100m
Smt 15/05 by Drexler, Thallmair, Lawang Tamang at 11:40 am

Route: South Couloirs/West Ridge

On 12/05 they did a recce and found their ABC, on a point where two rivers merge. On 13/05 they set up their ABC. On 14/05 it snowed all day, so they were not able to move. On 15/05 they left ABC at 6:10 am. They reached a couloir at 9:35 at 5400m, which would be rocky in dry weather, but it was covered in about 20cm. When they got out of the couloir at about 5700m they reached a ridge, which lead to the glacier left of them. They reached blue ice, where they roped up and put in a few anchors.

They stayed about 10 minutes on the summit as the weather closed in. They were down-climbing and thought it would have been better to have two ice axes for the descent. They reached ABC at 2:30 pm, where they stayed the night.

Additional information:

Key to Nagoru Far-East is the ABC, which is located in the northeast of Nagoru Yak Kharka, the big Yak grazing zone at 4900m high above the ruins of the former village of Nagoru.

At Yak Kharka one turns to the east and circumvents the lower slopes of Nagoru East without descending to arrive at another "Kharka" (some stone ruins there, but today almost no water). Here one heads to the northeast, slightly ascending to the edge of the plains, where Nagoru Far-East becomes fully visible for the first time. Then you cross two small side valleys and a steep ascent to the north will bring you to a small saddle which hides a perfect ABC at the other side and close to a small river at 5100m.

After summiting Nagoru Far East, the team left ABC on 16/05 and descended to Phu.

Hired:
Lawang Lama Tamang, Ramche-2, 28/03/1978
Yokachi Tamang, Rasuwa, 27/04/1992